It’s 5 A.M. The sun is rising to meet the Chobe River, and the ring-necked dove breaks the silence of dawn. Just as the wind catches the scent of the wild sage-filled bush, you spot him—a king on the prowl. It’s the second day of your African safari, and you’ve already spotted countless animals scattered across the lush landscape: hordes of majestic elephants crossing your path, giraffes peeking out around the acacia treetops, mobs of mongoose chasing each other into their burrows. But this is the moment you’ve been waiting for—a male lion meandering along the Chobe River looking for breakfast. You nervously scan the horizon, wondering which animal will fall prey to his hunger. The plump hippos dotting the river look extremely relaxed; their aggressive reputation precedes them, and he knows to stay away. The baboons call to each other in warning, cradling their babies close. While you’re distracted by the playful baby baboon tugging on his sister’s ears next to your Jeep, the lion swiftly darts toward a lone water buffalo, his movements slicing through the air. For what feels like an eternity, but is only a matter of seconds, you watch, hands gripped tightly to your camera. The buffalo makes a quick escape, and you let out of sigh of relief. However, the lion is not phased. The day has just begun, and his pride of lionesses has now come to join him. The day’s hunt will have to feed everyone, but Botswana is a land of abundance.
In Botswana, the Kalahari Desert makes up 70 percent of the land, but it is also home to one of nature’s wonders: the Okavango Delta. Hailed as a UNESCO world heritage site, seasonal flooding fills the delta and attracts a wide variety of wildlife, including all Big Five game animals (lions, leopards, buffaloes, rhinos, and elephants) and over 500 species of birds. Deep within Botswana’s fertile land is also one of the world’s largest diamond mines, Orapa, and a vast array of natural resources, from oil to uranium. It’s no surprise then that land protection is an inherent part of the country’s culture, passed down through generations; the ecosystem hangs in the balance of Botswana’s pula, the rain, and conservation efforts are critical.
As a renowned spot for eco-tourism in Africa, a limited number of people are allowed in Botswana’s national parks and game reserves at a time, not only to ensure that wildlife is protected but also to create an intimate, once-in-a-lifetime experience for visitors. More than 25 percent of the land is dedicated to parks and reserves, and in Chobe National Park, you’ll find the largest concentration of African elephants, some curious enough to step out and greet you on arrival. The deep connection between the people of Botswana and their land cannot be severed; you can feel the profound love and respect in the voices of your safari guides. You might come to Botswana with a checklist of animal sightings you hope to see, but you will soon find that the true beauty of Botswana is that, for just a few days, you get to be a part of something much bigger than yourself.
What to See
Chobe National Park Game Drive
Named after the Chobe River winding through the landscape, Botswana’s first national park is a sight to behold. The truth is, as a New Yorker, I never imagined that one day I would be face-to-face with a giraffe—well, more face-to-knee. Despite their towering stature, they proved to be extremely hard to spot. I am embarrassed by how many times I joyfully shouted “GIRAFFE!” and it turned out to be a tree. But my guide taught me how to spot the tracks of each animal, and soon enough, three long-legged beauties gracefully sauntered to our Jeep. If you want to move through the park undetected, I recommend cruising in an electrically powered Jeep. Not only are they good for the environment, but their low, gentle hum won’t startle the animals you are trying to get close to.
Boat Safari in the Okavango Delta
Tracking animals on a game drive is a thrill, but there’s something truly magical about floating along the Okavango Delta and watching the animals come to you. Opt for the sunset cruise to see the elephants bring their babies out for a drink and a swim. And look out for the bobbing hippos—this is the closest and safest way to see these magnificent creatures.
Elephant Havens
Elephant Havens is a nonprofit sanctuary dedicated to rescuing orphaned elephants. The organization relies on the help of local villagers to spot orphaned or abandoned elephants in order to immediately mount a rescue mission. You can visit the haven and see firsthand the 24-hour care it provides to each of the elephants, some young enough to be bottle-fed every three hours. Elephant Havens also vows a 20-year commitment to each of its young to gradually reintroduce them into the wild. It is also one of the few organizations focused on local communities, implementing community awareness programs, building schools, and inputting freshwater wells.
Helen Kaminski Dijon Crocheted Bucket Hat
20 percent of the proceeds from each purchase goes to on-the-ground conservation efforts, per Olivela.
Lisa Linen Jumpsuit
Swarovski Optik CL Companion 8x30 B
Where to Stay
Camp Moremi
Situated on the edge of the Xakanaxa Lagoon in the Moremi Game Reserve is Camp Moremi. As you drive up to the entrance, it’s immediately clear you are in the heart of the wild. Right by the welcome sign, basking in the midday sun, I spotted a pack of 10 lazy lion cubs, stretching their enormous paws to the sky. And don’t be surprised to find baboons and their babies playfully running along the path to your private luxury safari tent. Each tent comes fully equipped with an en suite bathroom and an outdoor viewing deck, which, much to my delight, the baboons would also sit on. At Camp Moremi, you can enjoy both game drives and boat safaris, but my personal favorite activity was watching the thick-billed weaver pluck strings of papyrus and intricately weave its stunning dome-shaped home.
Chobe Game Lodge
As the only permanent lodge in Chobe National Park, Chobe Game Lodge is the perfect marriage between luxury and sustainability. This fully certified eco-tourism lodge offers private river-view suites, a top-rated spa, and a celeb guest list. (Prince Harry paid a visit, and Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Burton famously tied the knot at Chobe and stayed in the honeymoon suite.) By running electric safaris, the lodge has managed to save an estimated 38,000 kg of CO2 emissions. Chobe Game Lodge was also the first establishment to have an all-female staff of professionally trained safari guides, called the Chobe Angels. Currently more than 65 percent of the staff at the lodge are women—a testament to its dedication to gender equality. Chobe Game Lodge proves that luxury eco-tourism is the future.
Leroo La Tau
For one special night during the dry season, guests staying at Leroo La Tau can camp under the bright stars in the vast Makgadikgadi Salt Pans. Once one of Earth’s largest inland lakes, these pristine white salt flats are so remote that neither light nor sound pollution can disturb your experience. Let your personal naturalist guide take you on a geological journey while dinner is cooked in an outdoor fire pit. There’s no doubt that this place will transform you.
NEOUS Shamali Raffia Flat
20 percent of the proceeds from each purchase goes to on-the-ground conservation efforts, per Olivela.
What to Eat
Camp Moremi Treehouse
Every night, Camp Moremi’s staff hosts a traditional Botswanan affair in their treehouse dining hall. Seated at a large family-style wooden table, the staff sing and share tales of safari adventures over a flavorful feast of locally sourced beef, fish, and vegetables. When dinner is over, grab a drink and stargaze on the deck below.
The Duck Café
While most of the safari resorts in Botswana are all-inclusive, you’ll be missing out on some of the best food in the country if you don’t venture into town. Luckily, God has given me the unique ability to smell fresh-cut fries from a mile away, and that’s exactly how I landed at The Duck Café in Maun, right across the street from my airport. The vibrant courtyard is filled with travelers from all corners of the world stopping by for a bite. The spicy Mozam chicken is the most succulent and flavorful piece of chicken I’ve ever had. And those chips I smelled? Piping hot salty bits of potato heaven. Don’t forget to stop inside the café, as it doubles as a shop selling Botswanan art and crafts; it’s a perfect place to grab a few handmade souvenirs.
Dusty Donkey Café
If you still have some time to spare before your flight at Maun Airport, head to the Dusty Donkey Café for a sweet treat and a coffee. All of the baked goods are made fresh daily on site. Sit down for a slice of their almond and orange cake, and then, take the chocolate slice to go. Plus, all of the coffees are made with a double shot, much needed for the trip ahead.
Caravana Mincha Frayed Cotton-Gauze Tunic
Caravana Nuxini Cotton-Gauze Wide-Leg Pants
Xita Mini Flow Earrings
Sustainably made and ethically sourced from Botswana.
Where to Drink
Linyanti Bar
Situated in a cozy nook at the Chobe Game Lodge is the stunning Linyati Bar. Built in a traditional Bedouin tent, this all-inclusive bar is the perfect way to unwind after a long day out on safari. Who knows who you will meet nestled among the luxe silk cushions?
Okavango Gin
Hidden beneath an ebony tree forest sits the solar-powered Okavango Gin Distillery. Helmed by a staff of safari guides and naturalists, Okavango gin is distilled and bottled in the Okavango Delta. Working with the women of the Gweta village, Okavango Gin created a seasonal and highly limited Marula Gin, aptly named The Forager. The women first brew a traditional beer “Bojalwa ja Morula” by ripening the marula fruit in the sun and then straining the pulp with spring water through hand-woven grass sieves. The first of its kind, it’s the only gin brewed in the Kalahari Desert and then twice distilled in the Okavango Delta.
Okavango Craft Brewery
As northern Botswana’s first licensed micro-brewery, Okavango Craft Brewery knew it wanted to create a company founded in community and conservation. By partnering with a local NGO called Ecoexist, Okavango Craft Brewery works with small-scale local farmers to protect elephant migration routes. Farmers agree to engage in sustainable agricultural practices and install passive elephant deterrents to guard crops. In turn, the brewery buys the millet at a premium price to encourage the growth of the community and the safety of the elephants. Sit in the beer garden with a Delta Lager, and toast to Botswana! Pula!
Christopher John Rogers Cassette Stripe Tie Front Handkerchief Dress
Xita Chia Orange Earrings
Sustainably made and ethically sourced from Botswana.
Cult Gaia Viera Fringe Clutch
20 percent of the proceeds from each purchase goes to on-the-ground conservation efforts, per Olivela.
Beauty Picks
mented cosmetics Balms Away Coconut Lip Treatment
This lip balm is made with shea butter and castor oil to keep your lips super hydrated for long safari drives in the heat.
Juvia's Place The Vitamic™ C Treatment Wipes
These pre-soaked pads brighten skin for the ultimate radiant glow and are the perfect travel companion for a quick refreshing swipe.
Organic Naturals Skincare Moringa Body Oil and Lemongrass
This 100-percent natural body oil is delicately scented with lemongrass and made in Botswana. It can be used during day or night for extra glow and also doubles as mosquito repellant.
