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When my phone signal briefly dropped out about halfway to The Omni Homestead Resort & Spa, I took it as a sign. For the first time in far too long, I set my phone down and watched the rolling hills pass by—red barns, white fences, blue mountaintops. By the time we arrived at the 2,300-acre resort in Hot Springs, Virginia, I knew I was truly getting away from it all.
This stunning location—nestled in the Allegheny Mountains, about a two-hour drive from Charlottesville or Roanoke—has been luring vacationers since 1766, when homesteaders built a lodge to take advantage of the therapeutic natural springs in the area. This makes The Homestead the oldest resort in the United States. And its recently completed $170 million renovation and expansion are ensuring that more than 250 years later, it remains among the very best.
A HISTORIC PROPERTY
The Homestead runs on history and gracious hospitality. Its wide front porch is lined with rocking chairs, and the Great Hall hosts a social hour each afternoon, overseen by maître d’hôtel Anthony Pusey, whose family has worked at the property for generations. The hall’s custom-made carpets celebrate the regional flora and fauna, complementing the stunning paintings on the hotel walls.
At the turn of the 19th century, The Homestead became a fashionable vacation spot for U.S. families with political and societal clout. A former first lady was said to have learned golf here, maybe on the same course where you can learn, too. (The resort also has the oldest first tee that remains in continuous use.) Then there’s Theater 1923, where you can still watch movies nightly, and the classy Presidential Lounge—a nod to the 24 U.S. presidents who have checked in here over the years (whose portraits line the walls of a low-lit speakeasy behind the bar).
THE ROOMS
The resort has 483 updated guest rooms, all decorated with a mix of elegant neutral furnishings and traditional Southern touches like custom floral drapes, featherbeds, and lots of cozy pillows.
I stayed in an Executive Suite, tucked in a corner of the hotel’s iconic tower and featuring nearly 500 square feet of space and a separate living room. The Wi-Fi worked great, but I hardly needed it: My main occupation was watching the sun rise and set over the mountains and grounds below.
WELLNESS
First on any agenda is the famed Warm Springs Pools. Thomas Jefferson traveled to the resort from Monticello in 1818 to enjoy the purported healing powers of these pools, rich in minerals like calcium, magnesium, and even lithium (said to give you the best sleep of your life). The two Warm Springs bathhouses underwent a $4.6 million rehabilitation in 2022.
Or perhaps you’ll take the waters in a more modern setting, at The Spa. The outdoor Serenity Garden has a geothermal octagon pool fed by two hot springs. Inside, the Aqua Thermal Suite offers a hot-to-cold circuit from a steam room and radiant-heated lounge chairs to aromatic steam and cold-vapor rooms.
The Spa also offers a range of body, face, and salon services. My Homestead Holistic Massage was a blissful mix of deep-tissue and Swedish massage plus aromatherapy, all tailored to my particular aches and pains (hello, stressed-out tech neck).
When you’re ready for more active pursuits, The Homestead offers golf—of course—plus its Equestrian Center, skeet shooting, fly-fishing, zip lining, and much more. I chose to join a hike through the Cascades Gorge with naturalist Brian La Fountain, who has been guiding Homestead guests for 37 years through this scenic and biodiverse slice of Appalachia.
FOOD & WINE
Eight restaurants and bars give you plenty of dining options. At the vast breakfast buffet, dive into housemade cider donuts or a grits bar (be still my Southern heart). Other favorite offerings include wood-fired pizza and lawn games at Woody’s, and the modern steakhouse menu at the excellent Jefferson’s Restaurant.
On my last night, friends and I met up with sommelier Quynh Cohen, whose Virginia Wine Experience showcases the state’s booming oenophile scene (meanwhile, the hyperlocal charcuterie board included honeycomb from Virginia beehives). A four-course dinner at the formal American Audubon Dining Room followed, highlighted by Allegheny trout almondine and bottomless bubbly. Service—the true secret sauce of the resort, from guest and spa services to guides and gastronomy—was at all times exceedingly friendly and genuine.
After dinner, we took our glasses to go, settled around a fire table on the front porch, and toasted to an escape that felt like a trip back in time—but one on which we’d brought every possible modern convenience along.
Start planning your trip to The Omni Homestead Resort & Spa now.
