The paisley pattern—a symbol of good fortune derived from ancient designs depicting the tree of life—has long seduced the eye with the swirls and lines of its dancing droplets. That multi-centennial tradition has since been woven into Etro’s heritage, encapsulating the brand’s cultured, wandering spirit and constant urge toward travel of all kinds: physical, mental, and spiritual.

That’s all the more true for the arnica—the only pattern in the fashion house’s long history to remain completely unchanged. The signature paisley decorative motif recently marked its 40th anniversary with a tribute exhibition at the Etro boutique on Via Pontaccio, nestled in the heart of Milan’s Brera art district.

a row of etro arnica jacquard bags in dramatic lighting
COURTESY OF ETRO

“5 Threads, 40 Years” presented an immersive journey of discovery through sophisticated original designs, invaluable memorabilia, precious ancient garments from around the world, and the It bag from Etro creative director Marco De Vincenzo’s latest collection. Video mapping and kaleidoscopic projections played with all facets of arnica’s history, weaving a connected path with the five colored threads that make up the pattern on fabric that first appears to be canvas but is in fact a refined jacquard.

The Journey

part of the etro exhibition 5 threads 40 years
COURTESY OF ETRO
The exhibit included a room filled with trunks and suitcases—containers, both physical and symbolic, of the memories Etro has collected during its rich history. Its soul has always been defined by openness to the other and a desire to explore new worlds, and arnica in particular merges the enchanting realms of nature and art in an endless flow—much like paisley.

The Creation

part of the etro exhibition 5 threads 40 years
COURTESY OF ETRO
This brand’s very roots, of course, lie in the production of such sophisticated fabrics. In the early 1980s, founder Gerolamo “Gimmo” Etro—a fashion and antique collector who was also an avid connoisseur of ancient history—first adapted the traditional paisley patterns that would soon become the most recognizable staple of the Etro style. Season after season, the print has appeared on the fabrics of its apparel collections and leather accessories, via an exclusive manufacturing process. Accordingly, the first entry in the exhibit showcased Gimmo Etro’s working desk, along with part of his vast archive of books, textiles, and memorabilia collected during his countless journeys in pursuit of inspiration. It was in this constant flux of shapes and designs that his creative vision was born.

The Icon

various strands of colored threads on a textured fabric
COURTESY OF ETRO

From its design to its weaving, arnica lies at the heart of a tradition uniting elegance, eclectic style, and artisanal genius. The five colored threads—red, turquoise, yellow, green, and white—come together in the paisley jacquard before receiving a special coating, resulting in a versatile, resilient fabric that preserves those colors. Because the chromatic results of the reaction between the resin and the pigments are never the same twice, each arnica handbag is one of a kind. From shopping bags to mini bags, bucket bags, and bowler bags, the multicolored details, threading, and metal charms combine to achieve De Vincenzo’s unique aesthetic.

Embark on your own version through this tribute to arnica, a representation of Etro’s eternal pilgrimage of sartorial, stylistic, and cultural discovery: from yesterday, continuing today, and always looking to tomorrow.