Despite the mass photographers and fashion-clad showgoers surrounding the Agger Fish Building on Tuesday afternoon, the exact entrance for Gabriela Hearst’s fashion show somehow remained nondescript (even though it was held at the same location in previous seasons). I even double-checked to ensure I was going through the proper door. Not to worry; I was correct—and once I walked inside, it felt like an immediate reprieve from the busyness outside. With chatter filling the space, which was further separated into a room within a room thanks to delicate, suspended cloth walls, I thought to myself, “This must be the type of energy Gabriela Hearst creates.” Drinks—including coffee and cocktails—and small bites like empanadas greeted the attendees, and perhaps that’s why attending this show felt a bit like heading to brunch with friends. Of course, this was not brunch. There were clothes to be seen, after all.
Among the pioneers of the “quiet luxury” aesthetic that’s been taking the fashion world by storm as of late, Gabriela Hearst and her eponymous label stand proud—and with good reason. But, while there are always sure to be suits and timeless staples to serve as the foundation of the collection, Hearst adds a touch of grit to her designs, whether it be through patches of leather (leftovers from handbag production, one of Hearst’s many sustainable practices) stitched onto crochet dresses, or bold hardware details on the edge of a neckline, the handles of a handbag, or the buckles of platform shoes.
It would be easy for me to initially think that these pieces were intended for those who subscribe to the idea of a rock and roll lifestyle. However, dreamy music and an airy location setting the stage for a silk organza cream skirt, a gauzy, white hand-crocheted lace dress, and even a colorful knit caftan quickly told me otherwise. As did the show notes, which mentioned that this range—much like the designer’s for resort 2024—was inspired by the Druids.
Thinking about an ancient group like the Druids brings to mind strong, thoughtful, and intuitive individuals. It would make sense, then, that Hearst’s front row was filled with the likes of Laura Dern, Danai Gurira, and Lindsey Vonn—those who reflect the values of Hearst’s own. And I believe that is precisely the type of person that she’s designing for.
Gabriela Hearst Spring/Summer 2024
