Last year saw the revival of vanilla perfumes, ouds grew exponentially and fragrance lovers began embracing bedtime scents, and while we'll no doubt see more of them this year, there are also plenty of exciting new developments when it comes to the use of biotech in fragrance and the rise of unexpected scent muses and note pairings.
For ELLE's annual perfume trend report, we went straight to the experts to find out what's new and what's next.
The experts
- The perfumers: Maya Njie, David Seth Moltz of D.S and Durga, Delphine Jelk
- The scent concierge: Michael Rodriguez of Liberty's The Fragrance Lounge
- The creative director: Chriselle Lim of Phlur
- The perfume enthusiasts: Sable Yong and Tynan Sinks of Smell Ya Later podcast
1.Fantastic Aromatics
There’s always room for statement-making ouds and glamorous ambers, but get ready to see a rise fragrances that bring the outdoors in while creating a sense of serenity. Think of it as the best friend that’s always inviting you for a hike to 'get some fresh air'.
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'A continued emphasis on grounding, earthy notes such as vetiver, incense spiced and woods, but also vibrant perfumes where citruses are paired with lush green herbs and florals,' is what perfumer Maya Njie sees in her 2025 fragrance crystal ball.
'The combination of the familiar and fresh resonates with a desire for balance—reconnecting with nature while embracing innovation.' Scent has always affected our state of mind and wellbeing (it’s why you have such a strong reaction to scents you don’t like). But we’ll see more brands using this in its storytelling, encouraging us to make more conscious decisions when it comes to selecting our daily scent.
ELLE Edit: Fantastic Aromatics
'I think that we can go further and say that if you’re feeling a bit sad or anxious, perfume can really help,' says the perfumer Delphine Jelk at Guerlain. Njie agrees. 'Aromatics, with their herbaceous and calming qualities, align with the growing focus on wellness and mindfulness,' she says. 'Consumers are drawn to scents that feel restorative, creating moments of tranquility amidst fast-paced lives.'
While all perfumes are arguably gender-neutral, aromatics will no doubt appeal to anyone who’s looking for something decidedly cool and modern. It's a trend that’s already picking up in-stores, observes Michael Rodriguez, perfume concierge at Liberty’s The Fragrance Lounge. 'We’re seeing a rise in green notes; herbaceous, earthy scents that bring a sense of grounding and freshness. These trends speak to a shift towards balance and duality in fragrance,' he tells ELLE.
2.The Vanilla Vibe Shift
'People won't be satisfied until they bathe in a vat of blueberry pancake perfume,’ says the trailblazing, New York-based perfumer, David Seth Moltz of D.S & Durga. While you won’t find him creating a saccharine sweet composition, Moltz is correct in that ultimately, there is a huge market for lip-smacking dessert-like scents. It’s something that Phlur’s creative director, Chriselle Lim, understands all too well.
'I see the next evolution of vanilla combined with fruit and other gourmand note,' Lim tells ELLE. 'I’m also seeing consumers loving whipped, lactonic scents that are reminiscent of chantilly cream,'she says, namechecking the brand’s Heavy Cream as a particular fan favourite. 'They seem to gravitate towards these creamy scents, or other toasted characteristics like buttery and nutty notes.'
ELLE Edit: The Vanilla Vibe Shift
If that’s not for you – fret not. This year will see the Great Vanilla Rebrand. 'Today’s vanilla notes are rich, smoky, and even woody, lending themselves to more sophisticated compositions,' says Rodriguez.
It’s less birthday cake, more decadent cocktail in a jazzy, dimly-lit bar. Dior’s Bois Talisman combines cedarwood inspired by Christian Dior’s sketching pencils with three forms of vanilla (infusion, absolute and CO2 extract for added depth and complexity. Elsewhere, Amouage Lustre sees warm sandalwood and cardamom nuzzling against plush vanilla.
3.Offbeat Hits
Have you ever dreamt of smelling like a brooding 1970s icon getting up to mischief in smoky room wearing (faux) mink and little else? Or fancied yourself as a forest nymph with limbs that sparkle and glimmering wings? Well, there’s now a scent for that as brands re-imagine their fragrance muses and embrace the unexpected side of perfumery.
Moltz, whose concoctions for D.S & Durga often sets a high bar for the fragrance world (they were an early adopter of pistachio before the note became 2024’s breakout star) name-checks 'flowers not florals, such as realistic flower perfumes rather than a medley of floral molecule' as one of this year’s burgeoning trends.
ELLE Edit:Offbeat Hits
Chopova Lowena Hey Zhasmina! Parfum
In-store only at Dover Street Market
Elsewhere, fashion renegades Chopova Lowena enters the perfume space with a trio of fragrances inspired by its Bulgarian roots (the scents are made in Bulgaria using ingredients native to the region) and the rebellious spirit and magical aura of fairies and nymphs. Try Hey Zhasmina! (available only in-stores at Dover Street Market) for an unexpected hit of soft jasmines balanced with savoury fennel. Sana Jardin’s Air of Aquarius taps into our collective obsession with horoscopes and celebrates the return of Pluto to Aquarius with a generous helping of zingy lemon.
You'll also see plenty of scents inspired by our five-a-day, according to Sable Yong, writer, author of Die Hot With A Vengeance and co-host of the fragrance podcast Smell Ya Later. 'Gourmands are still peaking, but they’re going in wacky directions — vegetal, literal, and savoury,' Yong tells ELLE. Her podcast co-host Tynan Sinks echoes this. 'Tomato had its moment in the home, and we’re already seeing it make its way to fragrance with scents like Maison Margiela Replica's From The Garden and Flamingo Estate’s Roma Heirloom Tomato Fragrance Oil.
Tomato is only the beginning. Beet, fennel, and olive can already be found in many scents, but we’re going to see them called out quite a bit more.'
4.The Lingerie Effect
Thanks to political and cultural shifts, it’s now passé to describe a scent as ‘sexy’, but – hear us out – it’s ok to want something that makes you feel sensuous and irresistible, something that captures the feeling of silk on bare skin and mimics inside of a lingerie drawer filled with cashmere, transparent tulle and fine lace.
Let’s face it: with the rise of smut on booktok and films that explore female desire such as Babygirl, it’s clear that 2025 has sex on the brain. To capture the mood, look to purple flowers, musk and cashmeran along with milkier hints of almonds. Think of it as sexy scents, through the female gaze.
Cherry Cheng’s Jouissance looks to erotic literature to inspire its fragrances which include Les Cahiers Secrets, an homage to the works of Anais Nin. It’s the scent of flushed skin and antique boudoirs, with notes of powdery heliotrope, soft musks and a touch of cumin to keep it from feeling too demure.
ELLE Edit: The Lingerie Effect
Elsewhere, Flora Danica’s Flower Muse is an outdoorsy frolic through irises, luminous sweet peas and poppies while & Other Stories Paper Blossom impeccably clean, like soft sheets on a Sunday morning.
Getting Greener
Considering how much nature influences our fragrances, the journey towards a more eco-conscious perfume landscape has never been more important. 'We know that with the climate change, for example, some natural ingredients may not have the same scent profile in coming years because the soil is changing,' says Jelk.
This means that aside from developing clever synthetics ('There’s a rise in biotech within perfumery where science bridges nature to give innovative results,' says Njie) and relying on ethical sourcing to avoid over-harvesting, perfume suppliers are also looking at greener methods of extractions.
5.Added Extras
Get ready to see your favourite scents taking over the rest of your routine. Matching soaps and body creams are nothing new, but there will be an influx of deodorants, body oils, hair perfumes, candles, scented pebbles and wearable perfume.
'We believe in making fine fragrance accessible and bringing that luxury and elevation into every step of your routine,' says Lim of Phlur’s expansion into bodycare which includes body oil and deodorant. 'It allows our customers to amplify their scent journeys and incorporate more Phlur products into their everyday.'
Sinks agrees, adding: 'Body lotion, body wash, hand cream, hair perfume, deodorant, any and everything that can be scented will be. We’re already seeing body and hair brands that previously never invested in fragrance suddenly go all in, and this is just the tip of the iceberg.' For Yong, she'd love to see a rise in fabric fresheners perfumed just like your signature scent to 'refresh clothing without having to throw them in the wash'.
6.IRL Spaces
While online shopping guides are useful, nothing beats experiencing fragrance in real life. Cavernous perfume halls can be overwhelming, which its why it's important for brands to take a more immersive and personal approach. 'I am passionate about showing perfume's potential to conjure rich narratives,' says Moltz. 'I think more people are seeing perfume as a record or a book - a whole world you can step inside of.'
Yong concurs, saying: 'People are seeking out perfume in person way more today. Sure, blind buys [purchasing scents without smelling them] are a thing because we live our lives online, but people really enjoy going on a quest to discover scents.
'I’m hoping we’ll see fragrance swaps become more frequent, more fragrance shops offering unique scents, and scents and smell community introducing people to new things they’ll want to buy. Word of mouth goes far with perfume.'
New scent boutiques opening in London truly takes shoppers on a journey through olfactory wonders.
The black book of perfume stores
Massimiliano Torti, Brewer Street: For a personalised fragrance experience through a vast collection of 500 hand-crafted scents made in Umbria Italy. torti.co.uk
Maison Diptyque, New Bond Street: For a look into the French house’s rich history, featuring artworks, archival pieces and a sumptuous bodycare area that looks like every beauty editor’s dream house. diptyqueparis.com
Santa Maria Novella, Burlington Gardens: For a slice of its majestic Florence store in London. uk.smnovella.com
Aromaria, Regent Street: For an elite, space-scenting experience (this Mexican brand is responsible for scenting some of the world’s finest hotels such as Nobu and the Four Seasons). There are plenty of ready-made candles, diffusers and scent waxes, along with bespoke compositions. The chic ‘living room’ upstairs offer a more tailored experience for discerning clients. aromaria.co.uk
Parfums de Marly, Mount Street: Aside from a futuristic virtual reality experience that takes you into the wondrous world of this historic French fragrance house, there are also private rooms for consultations and scented horse heads so you can discover scents without spraying them. Très chic. uk.parfums-de-marly.com
Trudon, Monmouth Street: With its travertine floors and Petit Trianon-inspired wallpaper, you’ll instantly be transported to the regal era of 18th century France. trudon.co.uk
The Fragrance Lounge, Liberty London: For a thoughtful, hand-holding with seasoned scent experts to find your next favourite perfume. libertylondon.com
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Medina Azaldin is the beauty editor of ELLE and Harper's Bazaar UK, working across print and digital features. She has more than seven years journalism experience and has previously written for Red and Good Hoousekeeping. When she's not demystifying the latest skincare ingredient, sniffing out the next big perfume trend or uncovering the science behind wellness practices, you'll most likely find her in Hatchards Piccadilly or watching a crime series with her cats. Oh, and she's a competitive cheerleader, too.
