The graduated bob probably calls to mind the nostalgia of the Nineties, when the inverted, sharp crop was as omnipresent and revered as skinny brows and overlined lips. Fast forward to today and the formerly blunt, razored cut is enjoying a moment in the spotlight, taking on a slightly softer iteration for the new season.
As for your modern style references? Lily Collins, for one, who stepped out with a Posh Spice-inspired bob recently, and Victoria Beckham, who has long endorsed the popular crop, also reimagined the cut adding a contemporary edge via softer layers and subtle waves.
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Below, ELLE UK spoke to Mark Hayes, the International Creative Director at House Of Sassoon, about how to cut, style and wear the nostalgic cut now...
What Is A Graduated Bob?
'The graduated bob is the ultimate power haircut. It's cut shorter in the back and becomes gradually longer in the front, with a line that traces the contour of the jaw. It also features a graduated crown that gives an effortlessly chic result and accentuates the natural shape of the head,' shares Hayes.
The hairstyle originated in the Sixties and was defined by geometric precision, bold lines, and sharp structure, before being popularised by the likes of Victoria Beckham and Keira Knightley years later. 'Today, the cut remains as relevant as ever,' notes Hayes, adding that it's slightly less sharp and defined today – think longer layers at the front and softer waves. 'It's flattering, stylish and endlessly versatile.'
How To Cut A Graduated Bob
There's a certain precision that comes with this specific cut, even if you opt for a more subtle variation of the trend, and usually requires a 'twist cut technique' (cutting the hair at an angle to create a diagonal line).
'The genius lies in the fact that the graduated bob isn’t just a haircut, it’s architecture,' shares Hayes. 'You have to cut carefully ensuring the shorter back and the longer, face-framing front work together to enhance bone structure, add volume, and create a dynamic shape,' he shares.
The graduated bob can work for every hair type and face shape too. 'It suits oval, heart, and round face shapes, adding balance and sharpening features,' he notes. It's best placed for anyone with fine to medium hair. 'The layers will help create the illusion of thickness and bounce, giving even the most lifeless locks a major boost.'
How To Style A Graduated Bob Now
Hayes refers to the latest iteration of the graduated as a soft layered bob. 'This new take on the trend is inspired by the clean lines that epitomise the graduated bob but with a gentler, more fluid take, where layers help add effortless movement,' he notes.
'To create it, use a round brush and a volumising mousse to create that stacked effect at the back,' he says. 'Then straighten your ends for a polished, glass-like finish, or create soft waves for a modern, lived-in look. All hair types will benefit from using a texturising spray, a deep conditioning mask and and a glossing serum for ultimate shine too,' he adds.
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Amelia Bell is the Multiplatform Beauty Director for ELLE UK and Harper’s Bazaar, developing beauty strategy, writing, editing, and commissioning, and leading beauty content across both sites. Amelia has a particular interest in wellness and longevity, exploring the skin-mind connection, and decoding the latest treatments, tweakments and runway trends. She also has bylines for Women's Health, Refinery29, British Vogue, Harrods Magazine, and more.
