A few years ago, I was convinced that my hair was unbreakable. Every week I’d adopt a different shade, from letterbox reds to vibrant teals, convinced that the horror stories around bleach breakage and chemical cuts (this is when the bonds in your hair are damaged so extensively that it just snaps off, by the way) would never apply to me. Why would it? My brittle lengths had survived the last five bleach baths I’d imposed on them, after all.

The second thing that I wholeheartedly believed was that my haphazard box dye applications could rival years of in-salon experience. After all, I wasn’t attempting a Sienna Miller-worthy beachy balayage or cutting myself a graphic razored bob. The process was pretty simple: supermarket box bleach (and perhaps another if I was feeling dramatic) plus toner. For a while, it worked. Yes, my strands were fine and perhaps a little dry, but what couldn’t the Bleach London Reincarnation Mask fix in those days? I can tell you; it cannot fix melting hair, nor tresses that have reached a texture that resembles chewing gum and will not dry.

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Looking back, it’s difficult to fathom how I didn’t see the whole incident coming. I followed my foolproof two-step process as I did twice-to-three times a month, but this time (for some unforeseen reason) the shower was washing not only bleach and fresh colour from my head, but also clumps of my bright blonde lengths. ‘Clumps’ is perhaps putting it delicately; it was handfuls spanning from the tips to the very roots of my head. It’s difficult to determine whether it was the sheer volume of bleach and the length of time it sat there, or the frequency of my at-home salon sessions which caused the atrocity. Regardless, the final result felt catastrophic. I was sporting an involuntary, accidental pixie cut, and the road ahead looked bleak.

how to fix a chemical cut
LAUNCHMETRICS SPOTLIGHT

'Bleach is powerful and, in the right hands, it can work wonders. However, when it’s overused or misapplied, it can quite literally break your hair from the inside out,' explains hairdresser and Olaplex ambassador, Samantha Cusick. 'Over-bleaching compromises the internal bonds that keep hair strong, stretchy, and intact. Once those bonds are damaged, the hair becomes brittle, gummy when wet, and prone to snapping off. That’s when you hear the phrase “chemical cut” - it’s when the hair breaks so severely it looks like it’s been cut, only it wasn’t a pair of scissors, it was bleach.'

Once you've pushed your hair beyond its structural limits, the road to recovery is a long one, particularly if the majority of said strands are no longer fixed to your head. Luckily, bond building technology has come a long way (not long enough to reattach broken strands, mind, but an impressive way nonetheless), and the timeline for growing out your chic new pixie, bob or accidental mullet doesn't have to be a painful one. The first step? Don't do anything rash.

'First, take a breath and don’t panic,' says Cusick. 'You’re not alone. It happens more than you’d think, and recovery is possible. The first thing I tell clients is to step away from the bleach and heat styling, even if you’re tempted to fix it fast. Instead, start with a bond-building treatment to help stabilise the hair. Olapex Nº.0 and Nº.3 used together is a brilliant intensive rescue duo. They work from within to relink broken bonds, which is exactly what your hair needs at this stage. And of course, get some professional advice before making any more changes.'

It's important to remember that these things cannot be fixed overnight (and that’s okay). 'Think of it more like rehab than a reboot,' she says. 'You’ll need to be patient, gentle and consistent. The good news is, with the right care, hair absolutely can bounce back. Be kind to your hair, this is a healing journey, not a race.'

Cusick's biggest tip? Don't skip regular trims. 'I know it feels counterintuitive when you're trying to grow your hair, but regular micro-trims prevent splits from moving further up the strand. Fuel your hair from the inside too. A balanced diet, supplements if needed, and staying hydrated can all help support healthier regrowth.'

'Consultations are usually free and they can advise what path you should take to get your hair back to health,' adds hair technician, Katie Beecroft of Aveda Lifestyle Salon & Spa Covent Garden. 'A good colourist will create a plan which will usually consist of regular cuts to remove the dead hair and strengthening treatments. These can be done at home or in a salon depending on what budget you are working with.'

The Best Products For Growing Bleach Damaged Hair
Best For Bond Repair
Olaplex No.3 and No.0 Duo
Olaplex No.3 and No.0 Duo

A bond-building duo that work to restore bleach damaged strands from the inside, adding both shine and strength.

Best For Heat Protection
Redken Extreme Play Safe Treatment
Redken Extreme Play Safe Treatment

This leave-in conditioner both nourishes damage and protects your hair from heat up to 230 degrees.

Best For New Growth
Living Proof Scalp Care Density Serum
Living Proof Scalp Care Density Serum

This lightweight elixir helps to protect new growth while simultaneously protecting your scalp.

Best For Hydration
Aveda Botanical Repair Intensive Strengthening Masque Rich
Aveda Botanical Repair Intensive Strengthening Masque Rich
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Add moisture to dry brittle stands using this blend of plant butters and lipids.

As someone who has neglected her healthy hair to the point of literal mush, I also have a few parting words.

The first lesson you should take away from this story is that unless you are a hairdresser, you're not a hairdresser. Colouring hair is a form of artistry, and while the market is flourishing with DIY options that are far kinder than the ones I personally gravitated towards years ago, any attempt to dye your hair at-home should be done with extreme care. My advice? Leave bleach in the hands of the pros. The second is that none of us are immune to damage, no matter if you're sporting finer locks that have endured a hundred bleaches before or thicker virgin strands.

My parting note is merely to remember: these things happen. There's no shame in stepping into your local salon and explaining your hairdressing faux pas. A good stylist will be able to rectify an unfortunate cut, and while a bob or pixie may not have been your initial goal, no hairstyle is permanent and with proper care, repair and patience you'll see improvements and regrowth in a matter of months.

If you're desperate to restore your lost length in the meantime, hair extensions are always an option, though it's important to find for a seasoned stylist who can maintain the integrity of your natural lengths in the meantime.

Yes, the tale of my accidental pixie cut is a cautionary one, but it's not one to read without hope. Note, my current hair is shinier, thicker and healthier than ever before.


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Katie Withington
Beauty Writer

Katie Withington (she/her) is the Beauty Writer, at ELLE UK and Harper’s Bazaar. Working alongside the ELLE UK Beauty Team, she covers all things beauty for both print and digital, from finding backstage make-up trends at London Fashion Week and investigating buzzy skincare ingredients, to unzipping the beauty bags of Hailey Bieber and Margot Robbie. Prior to joining ELLE UK in 2022, Katie studied (BA) Fashion Journalism at London College of Fashion and has previously contributed to Red, Good Housekeeping and Prima.