Over-lining lips is an age-old make-up hack that, when used correctly, can subtly shape and enhance the fullness of your mouth for a plumper looking pout. Myriad make-up artists swear by it and countless celebrities adore it, hence why this technique has withstood the test of time.
'Over lining allows you to emphasise your lip shape, make lips appear fuller or create a new feel to your make-up look, inspired by a past era,' says Nikki Wolff, renowned make-up artist and KVD Beauty Global Creative Director Of Artistry. Take your cue from Kendall Jenner whose recent make-up moment for The Row’s AW22 show features a soft, neutral lip that Wolff naturally over-lined to create a pouty finish.
ELLE Edit: Lip Liners For Over Lining
How to over-line your lips
To create the illusion of a fuller-looking pout, the trick is start by steering clear of over-lining lips. 'I recommend staying within the natural lip-line at the outer corners of the mouth when you start,' says Nikki, 'this way, it remains flattering and realistic and will suit your natural lip shape.'
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Once the outer edges are defined, move on to the centre of the mouth. 'Start at the natural lip line and work your way outwards, over-lining lips and building up volume until you reach your desired finish.' Our advice? Less is definitely more. Wolff assures that you do not need a steady hand for this.
The next part, which is key to recreating Kendall Jenner’s lip look, focuses on the cupid’s bow. 'Draw over the cupid’s bow, slightly flattening any natural curve, to create a pouty, fuller-looking lip shape.' Finally, fill in lips with a layer of lipstick in a similar shade to the liner.
What lip shades work best for over-lining
'There are no hard or fast rules when it comes to selecting shades,' says Wolff. 'This technique works equally well with natural nudes as it does with deep reds.'
For a more dramatic effect, Wolff recommends opting for a deeper shade of liner than your lipstick colour. 'I like to use a darker shade along the outer corners of the mouth to create natural-looking dimension.' Noted!
