No, you haven’t somehow jumped in a time machine and transported yourself back to the Noughties – the spring/summer 2024 shows are in full swing and London has made it official: bright blue makeup is back.
But this isn’t the sticky 99p blue mascara from your youth. No, the SS24 take is a grown-up take: bolder, sexier and a lot more considered. From electric eyes at Matty Bovan to deep denim lips at Talia Byre and Burberry, the clean, fresh faces of the SS24 runways were brought to life with bright swipes of blue.
The biggest surprise of all? This makeup trend is actually wearable. The reason these runway looks caught our attention for all the right reasons is because they hit the right balance of statement and subdued. For every flash of cobalt colour, there was a pared-back eye, (seemingly) makeup-free skin or a nude lip to balance out the look.
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Admittedly, it might take some getting used to – the thought of wearing blue lipstick to your next dinner with friends might conjure images of Joey’s ‘Ichiban’ commercial from Friends, which is understandable – but if you take your cues from the experts, incorporating a little blue into your makeup is easier than you think…
The Starting Point: A Barely-There Base
The first step to blue makeup actually involves no blue at all… As demonstrated by the London Fashion Week shows, the best pairing for blue makeup is fresh, glowing skin. So, naturally, the look begins with skincare – the brighter the skin, the better. Start with a gentle exfoliator to brighten, such as Kate Somerville ExfoliKate, followed by a hyaluronic acid applied to slightly damp skin (try Paula’s Choice Hyaluronic Acid Booster) to hydrate and finish with a glow-boosting moisturiser, such as Emma Lewisham Illuminating Brighten Your Day Crème. (And always, always follow with SPF.)
As for makeup: ‘I love seeing natural skin,’ says makeup artist Miranda Joyce, who created the looks for Matty Bovan’s SS24 show. ‘It feels modern and fresh and was a great backdrop for the strong eye colour. We just concealed and used a light brush of foundation where needed. Also no powder, the shine was a strong, almost unkempt look.’ The team used Lisa Eldridge Beauty Seamless Skin foundation and the Elevated Glow Highlighter in Celestial Fire and Pink Moon for a subtle sheen.
The Beginner-Friendly Look: Bright Blue Eyes
If you’re new to colourful makeup, the easiest entry point is via your eyes. Enter the ultimate SS24 inspiration: the electric blue eye makeup worn by models including Ashley Graham, Precious Lee and Richie Shazam at Matty Bovan.
This look is perfect for makeup novices. Makeup artist Joyce worked rich blue colour across models’ lids and under the eyes (from the By Beauty Bay Midnight 9 Colour Palette), allowing it to smudge and drip down towards the cheeks, for a I-got-in-at-5am-and-didn’t-remove-my-makeup effect, in the very best way. A coating of clear gloss and a swipe of matching Kiko Smart Colour Mascara in Electric Blue brought the look together.
If you’re not quite ready to go full Matty Bovan-bright just yet, ease yourself in with a hint of the same bold colour. ‘Bright mascaras are a great way to introduce colour in an easy and flattering way; layer them up to get an intense colour. Also a bright eye pencil in the waterline gives a pop,’ explains Joyce. Try a smudge of Fenty Beauty Flypencil Longwear Pencil Eyeliner in Sea About It, a flick of Dior Diorshow On Stage Liner in Satin Indigo or a wash of MAC Eyeshadow in Atlantic Blue over lids for a subtle way to reference the trend.
The Ultimate Statement: Bold Blue Lips
You’ve mastered the fresh skin, you’ve trialled the colourful eyes – now it’s time for the big one: the dark blue lip. Seen at both Talia Byre and Burberry’s SS24 shows, the look was paired not with futuristic, out-there clothing, but refined everyday and evening attire – further proof that blue lips deserve a place in your day-to-day makeup arsenal.
To keep the look elevated, the key is to stick with deeper hues of navy and denim (instead of opting for paler blues, which might just make it look like you’ve got a serious case of frostbite) and keep the rest of the face bare. Burberry’s petrol-blue lips were paired with ultra-light makeup – think groomed brows, a slick of mascara and concealer only where needed. While at Talia Byre, makeup artist Lucy Bridge took ‘bare’ to a new level, even bleaching brows on some models and ditching mascara altogether for the ultimate blank makeup canvas.
First up, you’ve got to prep your lips with a gentle exfoliator, such as Refy Lip Buff, before allowing a thick layer of balm (the Rhode Peptide Lip Treatment never fails) to sink in for a hydrated, smooth base.
Then, it’s time for application. There’s no way around this: you have to be precise to make this look work. Apply a rich blue lipstick (MAC Retro Matte Lipstick in Matte Royal is the perfect deep hue) and feel free to use a brush (such as the super-fine Vieve 229 Lip and Line Brush) if you need help colouring within the lines. Then, clean up any smudges around the edge with a cotton bud dipped in a little micellar water and you’re ready for your big blue debut.
