Skintellectuals - ELLE's panel of pros pass judgement on the latest skincare trends, techniques and ingredients.
With so many new viral skincare routines trending on TikTok (moisture sandwiching? good! Reverse skincare? not so much...), it's natural to be cynical about yet another trend. But skin cycling, with more than 124M views on TikTok and counting, sees dermatologists and aestheticians supporting the logic behind the trend.
But what is it? Put simply, skin cycling is essentially a four day skincare 'cycle' where an acid is introduced on the first night, retinol on the second and gentle ingredients that allow your skin to rest on the third and fourth days. TikTokers claim to notice clearer, more radiant skin due to regular exfoliation without the irritation or redness that often comes with overuse of actives.
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But is it legit? We turned to the Skintellectuals to find out...
Skintellectual No.1: Dr Mary Sommerlad, Consultant Dermatologist
'Skin cycling is a neat way to introduce two highly active ingredients: liquid exfoliants, such as salicylic acid or AHAs, and retinoids into your evening skincare routine without disrupting the skin barrier. A disrupted skin barrier will lead to irritation and pigment issues. It's worth noting that AHAs and retinoids can complement each other but when used in combination can also irritate.
'Skin cycling separates the two while introducing a rest day from actives. As a consultant dermatologist, I've recommended alternating active ingredients including prescription strength topical treatments for many years in order to prevent irritation. The initial concept of skin cycling was for an effective night routine which, in my opinion, is the best time to focus on repairing the skin barrier and tackling any skin concerns.
'It's something I actually do myself. I exfoliate once a week and use my retinoid the rest of the time. On the days I use retinoids, I apply Vichy Mineral 89 (a hyaluronic acid serum) first to protect my skin barrier, followed by my retinoids.
'My big tips are to use evidence based liquid exfoliants and retinoids that are known to be clinically effective and to be consistent. It can take several weeks to see improvements in your skin once you start a routine.'
The Verdict:
'Skin cycling as a general evening routine guide does work. But, I would avoid introducing additional actives to the routine and I recommend tailoring your skincare regime if you're blemish-prone or have very dry or sensitive skin.
'If you're blemish-prone, you'll most likely benefit from using a prescription strength retinoid nightly and using the liquid exfoliant in the morning instead. If you've got sensitive skin, you may prefer to avoid liquid exfoliation altogether. If you're experiencing issues with your skin and it's not responding to over the counter products, it's time to speak to a dermatologist.'
Skintellectual No.2: Medina Azaldin, ELLE Senior Beauty Assistant
'AHAs, BHAs and retinoids are scientifically-backed, proven ingredients, but it can be confusing to figure out where it all sits within a routine. Throw in a reactive, acneic complexion like mine, and it's even easier to wreak havoc.
'In comes skin cycling, and I do think it's helpful in terms of helping you build an effective routine as it clearly says to use an acid on night one, retinoids on night two and no exfoliating or harsh ingredients on the last two evenings. But, as Dr. Sommerlad mentions, it's important to listen to your own skin and understand that there really isn't a universal skincare rule (except SPF - I'll live and die by that one).
'Since I'm experiencing active breakouts and my skin feels fragile, I've been skin cycling for seven days instead of four. I'll sweep a BHA exfoliant on the first night, retinol on the second and stick to a salicylic acid-infused cleanser and lightweight yet barrier-supporting moisturiser for the next five nights to keep any inflammation at bay.'
The Verdict:
'My acne is still very much thriving (yay) as nothing over-the-counter will be as effective as a prescription treatment (at least for my skin). But, my overall complexion feels comfortable, calm, and my active acne doesn't appear as aggravated or red. Any skincare philosophy that doesn't require excessive products or an overload of strong ingredients is a winner in my book.'
ELLE Edit: Products For Skin Cycling
Vichy Minéral 89 Hyaluronic Acid Hydrating Serum - £26
Skintellectual No.3: Colette Haydon, Founder of Lixirskin
'We built Lixirskin on the philosophy of skin cycling, except we've been calling it "skin switching", which means you use a specific ingredient for a longer period, rather than four days. For example, if you use our Night Switch PHA/AHA for renewal and radiance, you use it for two weeks. Then you stop for a week to allow your skin to rest before starting retinol for another four weeks.
'When we run or use our brains, we know we have limited energy but, when it comes to our skin, we think it has unlimited energy. Which it doesn't! So, I realised if we bombard the skin with too many actives that go in different directions - we call this metabolic pathways - it's like asking the skin to run around like a headless chicken. Skin switching allows the skin to focus on doing one thing at a time and not waste its energy. It's important to understand the power of doing nothing as well. During the rest period, we recommend using the Universal Emulsion and no actives.
The Verdict:
'Don't use all your actives all the time or all at the same time. The skin needs to rest and reset. Use your acids daily for two weeks, rest for a week and retinol for four weeks (all in the evening). It's a twist on skin cycling; it's a longer cycle that's more relevant to the skin's metabolism. It works particularly well for someone with sensitive skin since there's only one active ingredient at a time and you're not layering too many things. There's less product waste and is more cost-efficient.'
Medina Azaldin is the beauty editor of ELLE and Harper's Bazaar UK, working across print and digital features. She has more than seven years journalism experience and has previously written for Red and Good Hoousekeeping. When she's not demystifying the latest skincare ingredient, sniffing out the next big perfume trend or uncovering the science behind wellness practices, you'll most likely find her in Hatchards Piccadilly or watching a crime series with her cats. Oh, and she's a competitive cheerleader, too.
