If you’ve got acne-prone skin, it’s likely you’ve never felt the thrill of adding a new product into your skincare routine. It’s also likely you approach your skin with caution and avoid angering it at all costs, as you might a temperamental sibling. In practice, this often looks like playing it safe and sticking to what your skin knows.
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Or you might sit in the camp of acne-sufferers who try everything in the hopes of finding a miracle cure (spoiler alert: it doesn’t exist). Either way, faced with so much choice, navigating the skincare market can feel incredibly daunting and determining what will work for your skin often feels like a gamble. This is where familiarising yourself with an INCI (aka, ingredient) list comes in clutch – it can eliminate some of the guesswork and help you make informed choices about what your skin might like (or loathe).
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So, we reached out to Kimberley Medd, head of clinic at Face The Future, Dr Sindhu Siddiqi, aesthetic practitioner and owner of No Filter Clinic and Dr Sara Rakhshani-Moghadam, cosmetic doctor at Dr Rasha Clinic for the know-how on spotting non-acne-friendly ingredients from a mile off.
Which skincare ingredients are bad for acne?
When it comes to selecting the right skincare products, it’s advisable to steer clear of ingredients that are excessively drying, irritating, or comedogenic (that is, pore-clogging) - ergo, non-comedogenic options are your best bet for maintaining healthy, clear skin.
But how can you identify these culprits? According to Medd and Dr Siddiqi, here are the main offenders to look out for:
- Alcohol: Alcohol can excessively dry out the skin, leading to irritation and increased oil production as the skin tries to compensate. It might appear as isopropyl alcohol or ethanol and is commonly found in toners and chemical exfoliants.
- Fragrance: Fragrances in skincare are often irritating and can trigger inflammation, exacerbating acne. Watch out for anything citrus- or lavender-based; often cited as being soothing, on the wrong skin type they can be opposite.
- Coconut Oil and Cocoa Butter: Whilst coconut oil and cocoa butter are very hydrating for the body, they are also highly comedogenic.
- Lanolin, Isopropyl Myristate and Isopropyl Palmitate: These comedogenic moisturising agents are commonly found in moisturisers.
- Silicones: Look out for dimethicone! Silicones can trap oil and bacteria in pores and worsen breakouts. They're also often used in primers and makeup bases, and whilst some are non-comedogenic, some people with sensitive or acne-prone skin find them problematic.
- Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS): A harsh detergent often used in cleansers for its ability to foam and lather, SLS can strip the skin’s natural oils, leading to dryness and irritation, which can worsen acne.
- Petrolatum: Whilst petroleum helps to lock in moisture, it can also lock in impurities and exacerbate acne.
Which skincare ingredients can worsen acne scarring?
Some potent acne treatments, such as retinoids, can be highly effective when used in moderation. However, Dr. Siddiqi cautions that overuse can be counterproductive, potentially hindering the skin's healing process.
- Hydroquinone: While a fantastic agent for treating hyperpigmentation, in high concentrations or with long term use, hydroquinone can cause skin irritation or worsen hyperpigmentation in some cases.
- Overuse of Retinoids (anything in the Vitamin A category): This cult skincare ingredient is often helpful for improving the look of acne and acne scars, however, overuse can cause irritation and redness, which may exacerbate scarring if the skin becomes too inflamed. Retinoids should be introduced gradually and with professional guidance.
- Physical scrubs: A total no-go. Harsh scrubs can inflame the skin, slow down the healing process and make scars more noticeable.
Which skincare ingredients are good for acne?
‘On the flip side,’ Medd continues, ‘there are several ingredients that are particularly beneficial for managing acne-prone skin. These ingredients can help reduce inflammation, unclog pores, and promote healing without causing further irritation.’
Here are the best ingredients for acne-prone skin:
- Salicylic Acid: A beta-hydroxy acid that exfoliates the inside of the pores, preventing clogs and reducing breakouts.
- Niacinamide: Known for its anti-inflammatory properties, it helps reduce redness and regulates oil production.
- Zinc: Calms inflammation and helps to heal the skin, reducing the severity of breakouts.
- Benzoyl Peroxide: Kills acne-causing bacteria and reduces the size and severity of blemishes.
- Hyaluronic Acid: Hydrates the skin without clogging pores, helping to maintain moisture balance.
- Azelaic Acid: Reduces inflammation and helps to fade post-acne marks, making it a great option for those with acne scars.
- Hypochlorous Acid: Reduces bacteria within our pores that contribute to acne.
ELLE Edit: Skincare For Acne-Prone Skin
CeraVe CeraVe Blemish Control Cleanser with Salicylic Acid & Niacinamide
the ordinary The Ordinary Niacinamide 10% + Zinc 1%
Acnecide Face 5% Benzoyl Peroxide w/w Gel
Tower 28 Tower 28 SOS (Save Our Skin) Facial Spray
Dr Sara Rakhshani-Moghadam, cosmetic doctor at Dr Rasha Clinic, urges that while at-home efforts are incredibly valuable in taming acne-prone skin, in-clinic treatments can really bolster your skin health and give a helping hand. ‘Our most popular treatment is our BDR Acne Facial, specifically for acne prone skin. This non-invasive facial provides 360 support, starting with exfoliating, extracting and calming skin. We then use oil controlling and inflammation reducing skincare, followed by light therapy, a known treatment to fight acne causing bacteria, and SPF.'
Final thoughts
That said, there may be times when you've followed all the right steps, yet an ingredient just doesn’t work for you—c'est la vie!– even if it works wonders for your acne-prone friend. But, now that you’ve become an expert at deciphering INCI lists, do your research, proceed with caution, and always patch-test any new ingredients before diving in. Start by using it once or twice a week, gradually increasing the frequency as your skin adjusts.
If you experience any reaction, gently cleanse the area and discontinue use. On the flip side, if you’ve been using the product for a few weeks without abnormal redness or irritation, you’re in the clear. Just keep in mind that this doesn’t apply to high-performance ingredients like azelaic acid or retinoids, which may cause a temporary purge period—a brief spike in breakouts as your skin adapts.
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Chloe Woodland is the Group Beauty Assistant at , , and , working across print and digital features. She’s worked in the industry for two years, beginning her career writing for trade publications and Professional Beauty. When she’s not demystifying the science behind growing your hair, gathering the best make-up products of all time or investigating buzzy skincare ingredients, you’ll most likely find her rewatching Modern Family for the thousandth time or trying to tame her two working cockers (who’ve never worked a day in their lives).
