From $40,000 ‘Stem-Cell Facelift’ gifts at the Golden Globes to social-media users extolling ‘beef-tallow slugging’ as a viable replacement for sunscreen, the world of skin health is rife with viral trends. In fact, social media has helped power the global skincare market, which is expected to reach around £150bn by 2026, with 61% of 18 to 34-year-olds going to Instagram for beauty advice, and 64% of the same demographic heading to TikTok for guidance.
But it can be hard to know what’s medically and scientifically sound when you’re scrolling through a string of viral buzzwords, fads and self-declared ‘dermatological experts’.
‘Misinformation is known to travel six times faster than good information,’ says dermatologist Dr Muneeb Shah, who goes by @dermdoctor on TikTok, where he has amassed more than 18 million followers. He says it’s important to note that much of what we see there is often inaccurate and lacking essential detail. ‘Nuance is critical for short-form content, but oftentimes there is no room for it,’ he says.
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This murkiness extends to what makes a reputable source, with many alleged pros thriving in the grey area of what it means to be a skin ‘expert’. ‘Social media is completely unregulated. Unlike medical professionals, who are highly monitored by governing bodies, [on social media] anyone can pick up a camera and say whatever they like without implications or repercussions for spreading misinformation,’ adds consultant dermatologist Dr Aamna Adel.
In an age when department-store shelves are jam-packed with more unknown ingredients and high-tech gadgets than ever before, it’s important to know which information and products are trustworthy. Start by looking out for the red flags.
The most common of them all? The skincare quick fix. Drinking chlorophyll, applying potato slices onto pimples, slugging animal fats – if you’ve spent so much as a fraction of an evening in
TikTok’s virtual skin school, you’ll be familiar with these micro trends. While many of these clickbait fads are presented as tried and tested, they’re under-researched and can ultimately do more harm than good.
‘A lack of regulation in the supplement and skincare industry means that many of these products are not evidence-based or medically tested, posing risks to skin health,’ says aesthetic consultant Dr Barbara Kubicka. ‘While the allure of instant results is understandable, it’s crucial to adopt a long-term, personalised approach guided by professional advice.’
It’s not all doom and gloom. Dr Adel is quick to point out that social media can be a great educational tool; one that has empowered women to pay greater attention to their basic skin needs and identify irregularities as they occur. And there’s the rising ‘skintellectual’ movement, with many consumers demanding greater transparency from the industry, with a view to understanding the science behind the products they use.
‘Look for content creators who are consistently accurate and transparent, stay within their area of expertise and are open about any conflicts of interest, such as advertisements,’ advises Dr Shah. Dr Adel recommends checking the General Medical Council website, to make sure that UK creators who are claiming to be dermatologists are actually qualified to share science-backed information.
‘Trust is built with an audience through accuracy and time,’ says Dr Shah. Regardless of what the next TikTok quick fix or Instagram trend might be, there are ways to navigate the skincare world that will leave you feeling less confused and more educated. You just need to know who to trust.
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Katie Withington (she/her) is the Beauty Writer, at ELLE UK and Harper’s Bazaar. Working alongside the ELLE UK Beauty Team, she covers all things beauty for both print and digital, from finding backstage make-up trends at London Fashion Week and investigating buzzy skincare ingredients, to unzipping the beauty bags of Hailey Bieber and Margot Robbie. Prior to joining ELLE UK in 2022, Katie studied (BA) Fashion Journalism at London College of Fashion and has previously contributed to Red, Good Housekeeping and Prima.
