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The Best Vitamin C Moisturisers And How They Actually Work
It's basically a shot of espresso for your complexion
Next to retinol and hyaluronic acid, vitamin C is arguably one of the most popular ingredients in the skincare world. It's widely researched, and commonly found in various forms - be it in vitamin C serums, eye creams, SPF and of course, moisturiser.
But given the popularity of vitamin C in face creams, to what extent does it actually benefit your complexion? And who would benefit from it the most? We head straight to the experts to find out.
What is vitamin C?
A quick refresher: vitamin C is an antioxidant, which means when applied topically, it helps to shield your skin from environmental damage which can lead to dullness and pigmentation. It's a component that's naturally found in the body, but it depletes due to lifestyle and age.
Best vitamin C moisturisers for fatigued skin
How do vitamin C moisturisers work?
Essentially, vitamin C in moisturisers help to inhibit melanin production, at least to a certain extent (more on that later). 'This means it helps to reduce the appearance of dark spots, leading to a more even complexion,' says CeraVe consultant dermatologist Dr Derrick Phillips, who is a big fan of Cerave Skin Renewing Vitamin C Serum. 'Additionally, they neutralise free radicals which can accelerate skin ageing.'
What are the benefits of a vitamin C moisturiser?
If it's a gradual and subtle brightening effect you're after, or a quick pick-me-up for fatigued complexions, a vitamin C moisturiser is useful. 'It helps brighten the skin by reducing dark spots and uneven tone while boosting collagen production for a firmer, smoother appearance,' agrees Dr Phillips. 'It also provides antioxidant protection against environmental damage, such as pollution and UV-induced free radicals, promoting healthier and more radiant skin.'
That said, the vitamin C in your moisturiser might not be as potent as a vitamin C serum - but that's not necessarily a bad thing, suggests skin expert and facialist, Katharine Mackenzie Paterson. Since moisturisers generally tend to have lower levels of actives, she explains that they are 'good for beginners, young skins or skins that can’t tolerate high levels of actives but want to use them.'
Who should avoid vitamin C moisturisers?
Skin varies from person to person, so while vitamin C is a widely used and researched ingredient, there is still a chance you might be sensitive to it. Shares Dr Phillips: 'Vitamin C moisturisers can be beneficial for sensitive skin, but it’s important to choose a gentle, stabilised form of vitamin C to reduce the risk of irritation. Those with extremely sensitive or reactive skin, should avoid high concentrations and start with lower-strength formulations to test their skin's tolerance.'
When is the best time to use a vitamin C moisturiser?
Since vitamin C offers protection against environmental damage, its best to use it in the daytime as that's when you're likely to be out and about. But, that doesn't mean you can't use it in the evening. 'As vitamin C aids in skin repair and promotes collagen production overnight, using a vitamin C moisturiser in the evening can help support skin regeneration while you sleep,' says Dr Phillips.
How to find the right moisturiser for you
As with all skincare formulas, it's always best to look at the product as a whole rather than focus on one single ingredient. Is it non-comedogenic? Do you prefer a fragranced formula? How well do you tolerate essential oils?
There are also various forms of vitamin C used in skincare. 'Ascorbic acid (L-ascorbic acid), are the most potent and effective for brightening skin and stimulating collagen production,' says Dr Phillips, 'However, stabilised derivatives such as ascorbyl glucoside, sodium ascorbyl phosphate, and tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate are also effective, offering gentler, less irritating options for sensitive skin.'
Can you 'stack' your vitamin C products?
Layering your vitamin C serum underneath your vitamin C moisturiser doesn't hurt, but it won't technically deliver results much quicker, as there's a limit to how much vitamin C your skin can absorb. If stubborn pigmentation is a bugbear, powerful ingredients such as kojic acid, niacinamide, and azelaic acid are worth adding into your routine, too.
How we test
ELLE's curated list features vitamin C moisturisers for varying skin needs, and we've used them to the very last drop on different complexion types. It also considers the potency of the vitamin C, other ingredients incorporated alongside it and how pleasant it is to use.
The best vitamin C moisturisers to try
Medina Azaldin is the beauty editor of ELLE and Harper's Bazaar UK, working across print and digital features. She has more than seven years journalism experience and has previously written for Red and Good Hoousekeeping. When she's not demystifying the latest skincare ingredient, sniffing out the next big perfume trend or uncovering the science behind wellness practices, you'll most likely find her in Hatchards Piccadilly or watching a crime series with her cats. Oh, and she's a competitive cheerleader, too.


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