Gucci Cruise '24: An Expression Of Multi-Cultural Style In Seoul's Gyeongbokg Ung Palace
A studio-collective design team hits accelerate on a brand that's clearly got big plans for this year and beyond.
Gucci’s connection to South Korea dates back to the '90s, when they first opened their Seoul flagship. But in more recent years, the brand has made a concerted effort to both draw inspiration from the rich cultural offering of the South Korean capital, but also to play a part in strengthening the country's connection with the rest of the world, as well as designing outreach and volunteering programmes to restore and revitalise our understanding of the country's rich history. It is for this reason that Gucci chose to stage their Cruise 2024 show within the grounds of Seoul's magnificent Gyeongbokg Ung Palace.
From thought-leaders to film stars like Saorise Ronan, and musicians like ASAP Rocky, a glittering crowd of over 600 guests descended on Seoul for the occasion. And the clothes, designed by the studio collective left in place by now-departed Creative Director Alessandro Michele, were a glorious show of colourful multi-culturalism.
A Collective Approach
In November of last year, Gucci bid farewell to longstanding Creative Director Alessandro Michele, announcing that he would be succeeded by new designer Sabato De Sarno, 39, fresh from 13 years at Valentino, overseeing creative direction for women’s and menswear. However, De Sarno's debut collection for the luxury house will be unveiled during Milan Fashion Week in September.
The Cruise collection was designed by the team left in place by Michele.
The Majesty Of The Gyeongbokg Ung Palace
Gucci’s Cruise 2024 collection was set within the confines of Seoul's Gyeongbokg ung Palace, in South Korea.
Gucci's connection to South Korea began in the 1990s when the House opened its first flagship store in Seoul. But from 202o onwards, the fashion house has made a concerted effort to celebrate South Korea's vibrant hub of heritage, culture and creativity.
In November of last year, Gucci announced a three-year commitment to helping preserve, conserve and restore the Gyeongbokg ung Palace, also known as 'The Palace Greatly Blessed by Heaven.' To herald the work of this project, they held their Cruise show within its grounds.
The Front Row
The Cruise '24 show attracted a 600-strong crowd. A heady mix of K Pop stars, Korean actors, ‘Key Opinion Leaders’ and house ambassadors like Jodie Turner Smith, Saoirse Ronan and ASAP Rocky.
Pictured: Veronika Heilbrunner, Susie Lau, Tamu McPherson, Yoyo Cao and Pelayo Diaz
The Clothes
The collection itself showed no sign that this is a brand on hold. Referencing the Gucci of both Alessandro Michele and 90s Tom Ford - with nods obviously to Korean street culture as well as skate and surf (Gucci surfboards and skateboards, literally) - it wasn't as romantic and eccentric as we've seen in the last few years, rather a very of the moment mix of K Pop flamboyance, Gen Z grunge and Milanese haute bourgeoisie, with combat pants and scuba shorts blending with boucle suits, pencil skirts matching cropped jackets and knee-high go-go boots.
The Accessories
The show displayed an overload of silver jewellery, including layered chains hanging from belts. There was an especially alluring take on the 90s horsebit bag, with giant, elongated versions of it nestled into the crooks of arms and even an ombré chrome version which is sure to make the sequinned baguette fans sit up and take note.
Natasha Bird is the Former Executive Editor (Digital) of ELLE.
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