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Courtesy of Tory Burch

The Runway Rundown: Tory Burch Turns Up The Volume

Two decades since she launched her eponymous brand, Tory Burch has picked up a fresh energy to captivate a new generation of women. Naomi Pike takes a closer look at her AW24 collection.

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Tory Burch is having a moment. There's no denying that her brand, established over 20 years ago in New York, has picked up a fresh appeal that a new generation are taking note of. The AW24 collection proved that this is set to continue as she showed a wearable, covetable collection that offered up a cooler take on the new way to wear polish (with contrasting albeit equally neat sportswear) and immaculateness, complete with accessories and styling choices of note.

'We continued to explore volume and silhouette in new ways: with sharp edges, unusual textures, and technical sport details,' Burch herself said in a statement. 'We were thinking about making the everyday sublime: an old jacket, a lampshade, even a shower cap.' The result of this mundane source of inspiration was everything but, and instead a move through tactility and texture, worn by a brilliant cast of women set under some of New York's most impressive architecture, watched on by a front-row of fans that proved how great a Tory wardrobe can be.

Here, everything to know about Tory Burch's AW24 show.

The Silhouette

tory burch
Courtesy of Tory Burch

There was a renewed focus on the silhouette with this collection, which took its inspiration from the geometry of a lampshade. The result was a soft, A-line silhouette that spoke of an Upper East polish, but when rendered in interesting textures and clashing with sportswear it offered up a contemporary mood. The intention with it was to update familiar wardrobe pieces with interesting new constructions, more often seen in the way a handbag or performance wear is designed to engineer sharp angles that are light for its wearer.

The Setting

models walk the runway for the tory burch show during new york fashion week on february 12, 2024 in new york photo by angela weiss  afp photo by angela weissafp via getty images
ANGELA WEISS

Where else for the ultimate NY brand to host a show than in the cloister-like hallways of The New York Public Library? A poignant location for the brand as its show notes explained the design team regularly visit the Manhattan site for collection research.

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The Texture Play

tory burch
Courtesy of Tory Burch

The collection's keenest point of interest was the collections use of unexpected textures, which hinted at the fact that even two decades in Tory Burch isn't afraid to keep experimenting and evolving. Amongst the 34-look collection was paper leather, faux croc, denim, calf hair, Nylon and, as worn here by Paloma Elsesser, fabulous tinsel raffias.

The Casting

two women in dresses
Hunter Abrams

With casting queen Ashley Brokaw in charge, Tory Burch had a stellar line-up of fashion's current favourites to create an ensemble that were representative of the expansive Tory woman. Irina Shayk closed out the show and was joined by Emily Ratajkowski, Paloma Elsesser, Nora Attal, Ugbad and Devyn Garcia amongst others.

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The Accessories

a woman holding a bag
Hunter Abrams

Accessories are big business and Tory knows it. So, of course, each look came well adorned. The bag named after Lee Radziwill took centre stage, now rendered in fresh shades - cyan, distressed patent, tonal jacquard - and differing sizes. The shopper tote is surely to become the must-have. Shoes also proved a key styling element as they set the tone of polish and primness that set well in contrast with the more contemporary elements of the collection. Jewellery was left to clusters of glass fruit that riffed on how everyday activities (food shopping) have the potential to be elevated. To complete, sunglasses were worn in a sporty wraparound style and a majority of the looks certified that hosiery is set to remain a sartorial talking point well into next season.

The Front Row

uma thurman, awkwafina and natasha lyonne at tory burch rtw fall 2024 as part of new york ready to wear fashion week held at the new york public library on february 12, 2024 in new york, new york photo by nina westerveltwwd via getty images
Nina Westervelt

It was a who's who of New York's 'girlies'. Uma Thurman threw on a satin coat to attend, Awkwafina opted for navy, and Natasha Lyonne chose a pussy-bow dress. Others in attendance included Alexa Chung, Ivy Getty, Barbara Palvin, AnnaSophia Robb, and Kathryn Newton.

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The Palette

tory burch
Courtesy of Tory Burch

The palette was a sensual move through neutral pieces that spoke of everyday ease. Think black, beige, browns and even fresh white, but every now and again a shock of a bright and bold hue would break through (most often in a neat A-line midi skirts) be it cobalt blue or tangerine orange. This being Tory, there was still a splattering of florals to keep loyalists happy.

Lettermark
Naomi Pike
Freelancer

Freelancer

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