Think London Fashion Week, think explosions of creativity, traffic-stopping show venues, sparkling front rows and expertly crafted soon-to-be viral moments. But as London Fashion Week autumn/winter 2023 kicks off in the capital from this Friday, February 17 through to Monday, February 20, a different, quietly confident energy is emanating from the bustling design studios.
The headline act is undoubtedly Daniel Lee’s Burberry debut that, if you received the email (Sustainable! Responsible!) invite you’ll know, takes place at primetime on Monday night. What to expect? Well, the recently cleared out Instagram hints at a return to a very British Burberry and the reemergence of the horse and flag-wielding insignia. There will be a trench or two for certain and if Lee’s Bottega Veneta was anything to go by then plenty of hyper-covetable handbags are sure to populate the offering.
Burberry aside, the climate — both environmental and economic — is sure to inform the next few days in fashion. This is, however, no bad thing as designers need to refine their outputs and double down on their individual appeal. After all, these are not easy times to be a fashion brand, big or small, and so the investment that London Fashion Week demands is something that nobody is taking lightly. Where once the formula was set and followed — a 15-minute maximum show, a stomping soundtrack, a glittery front row of VIPs, an emotional bow — the rulebook has been ripped up.
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Consider Roksanda Ilinčić. The Serbian-born London stalwart has, in recent seasons, pre and post-pandemic used the capital’s most interesting art spots to backdrop her voluminous collections. For autumn/winter 2022, it was the roomy entrance hall of the Tate Britain that was the choice location and last September guests filed through American artist Theaster Gates’ take on the Serpentine Pavilion.
Yet, autumn/winter 2023 will see the designer opt for something more intimate, more tactile for those nestling down at Claridge’s, the storied Mayfair hotel late on Saturday afternoon. 'I loved the intimacy and emotions that were created within the space of Theaster Gates' Serpentine Pavilion during my last show,' Ilinčić tells ELLE UK of her September show. 'I wanted to continue with this narrative.' Now, this means something even more introspective, with the decision being made to scale down so that 'guests feel closer to the pieces to fully see and appreciate the fabrics as they brush past.' Whether the clothes themselves will be scaled down from the voluminous proportions the designer has championed in recent seasons is yet to be seen, but the loyal Roksanda customers who flock to her front row will no doubt relish the chance to get a literal feel of the clothes first. 'It feels like a new exciting connection, a more intimate dialogue with my community,' Ilinčić adds.
Another designer feeling the same is Molly Goddard. This season, the designer will trade out the capacious sports hall that she often uses to show her collections for something all the more intimate. Like Roksanda, the intention behind this is to focus on the clothes themselves. Little distractions, or drama to distract. Insiders hint that it might feel like the digital presentations and appointments she hosted during the pandemic from her design studio in a hidden part of Bethnal Green, East London.
And these two examples aren’t the only ones dialling down for autumn/winter 2023. Across the week’s shows, a more salon-like experience is expected for those in attendance, an option we’ve seen slowly trickle in as preference from hyper-chic brands like The Row and Alaïa, where creative director Pieter Mulier most recently invited the press into his actual Antwerp home. A new era of intimacy is palpable, and while it might usher in a level of exclusivity and elitism the fashion industry is often critiqued for, it will also pull focus from the 'Instagram shot' motive that has so often driven the creative decisions in recent years and on to the actual clothes.
This move for some doesn’t eliminate the desire for a show for others. For some brands, this season marks a shift in their showing process: they’re levelling up to reflect a growing business and revered reputation.
Marco Capaldo’s 16Arlington is set to be a case in point. The designer who has had nothing short of a stellar SS23 is set to return to his preferred venue, where he’s shown for the last two seasons, but with a completely different vision for the space. Again, it’s 'intimacy' that he mentions when discussing the set up. To be quite frank, one can’t help but feel for the PRs as the guest lists shrink but reputations blossom.
Capaldo hints that he’ll explore something more creative than the stark backdrops of the more recent previous seasons. 'We really wanted to create an immersive experience with the set acting as a backdrop for the collection.' Sure, it’ll work for those enjoying the Saturday afternoon showing, but it’s all being done to maximise the impact of the collection itself.
Consideration is key for brands like Capaldo’s, who admits that this current climate can be 'challenging' for independent brands. But, if anyone knows what his customer wants, it’s him. 'It is imperative to find a mood and an inspiration that tells an emotional story that resonates with the end consumer, whilst looking at pushing the evolution of the brand forward,' he candidly shares. 'We hope to tell a story that is simultaneously filled with raw emotion and an honest vision, but in a concise manner, too. It’s about finding the North Star within the [collection’s] inspiration, which is in and of itself a motivating journey.'
Priya Ahluwalia is another designer who is upping the ante. 'This season's show feels different to me,' she tells ELLE UK.
'I’m presenting Ahluwalia shoes and accessories for the first time and it’s been great to be able to really direct every single element of a look. The show itself has some performative elements, which is something we haven’t done before.'
Research has long been an understood part of Ahluwalia’s process for her namesake brand. For autumn/winter 2023, her original research has informed the show experience itself: 'It’s really fun to consider how it can inform every element. From the venue, to the sound design. It’s so inspiring to see it all come together.' The anticipation swells. Her conversation moves swiftly to justifying why a show still feels relevant for her and the Ahluwalia brand, aside from the obvious enjoyment: 'I think that shows, and all of the assets that come with them, really help a collection to be seen and travel in a larger way than other formats. But, I still think that everyone should just do exactly what feels right for them. My show is personal to me and my creative interests, which is the most fun part to explore.'
Even with the big names and anticipated debuts aside, the autumn/winter 2023 London Fashion Week might be the most interesting yet. Designers are needing to be bold, to knuckle down on their vision and the way they are choosing to display it. It’s set to keep those in attendance on their toes with a gentle shake up that is sure to prioritise personal passion and, ultimately, business acumen. Perhaps Ilinčić summarised what’s needed for this season best: 'I believe it’s very important to have your own path, and the courage to execute it.'
