Erdem shows double as history lessons, each inspired by the designer’s scholarly research into the lives of singular women. The spring/summer 2024 collection continued resort 2024’s focus on Deborah ‘Debo’ Cavendish, the late Duchess of Devonshire, who was instrumental in making her family’s crumbling Elizabethan-era home one of the best-preserved examples of a historic English estate. For this new collection, Erdem was granted access to Debo’s archive and even got to select a few fabric remnants from her extensive antique textiles collection to upcycle.
The Venue:
Erdem staged his outdoor show on the colonnade of the British Museum, the grand Greek Revival building that has become his regular show venue in recent seasons. The runway was framed by the structure’s 44 massive Ionic columns.
The Music:
The soundtrack paid tribute to Debo’s favourite musical artist: Elvis, sampling the King’s ‘Always on My Mind’ along with clips from interviews in which she discussed the importance of restoring Chatsworth. Jessica Stam wore an oversized biker jacket in petrol blue leather with Elvis-inspired silver studs and cerise pink cabochon embellishments.
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The Casting:
’90s model Tasha Tilberg opened the SS24 show, wearing one of the collection’s two spectacular patchwork trapeze opera coats made in collaboration with Barbour. It was pieced together from waxed cotton, velvet rose devore jacquard, and upcycled Chatsworth chintz curtain remnants.
The Front Row:
One of the most charming things about an Erdem show is seeing all of his loyal fans decked out in their period-inspired finery. While they waited for the show to start, celebs cavorted for the cameras: model Ashley Graham and her husband, videographer Justin Ervin, looked adorable lounging on a low wall in front of the museum in matching his-and-hers-florals (she in an off-the-shoulder gown, he in a short-sleeve button-up). Actor Lily James, dressed in a peplumed taffeta skirt and cropped knit, waved a yellow bouquet around on the steps.
The Collection:
Erdem’s upcycling project was very Sound of Music — in a good way — transforming chintz curtain remnants into a the aforementioned patchwork opera coats, as well as a pencil skirt, and two deconstructed tulle dresses that closed the show. The penultimate look featured a hand draped bodice and skirt with delicate floral embroidery by Debo’s great-granddaughter Cecily Lasnet.
A spliced pencil skirt and bralette co-ord, a draped kilt, and full A-line skirt tinted in vibrant shades of grass green, canary yellow, and cerise pink featured etchings of the stately home and Debo’s beloved rare breed hens whose descendants still roam the garden.
