There are few prints able to spark such a strong response as polka dots. Having fallen in and out of favour countless times over the past few decades, some have always loved them, others have a visceral aversion to them, and the rest simply vacillate between the two depending on how ubiquitous they are in that particular moment. Even among the seasoned ELLE fashion team, the opinion is still pretty much split down the middle.
But wherever you stand, there's no denying that polka dots are enjoying a renaissance this season, breaking free of their cutesy, twee and retro connotations and finally becoming not just widely accepted, but – dare we say it? – actually cool.
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The humble print's recent makeover can be traced back to the spring/summer 2024 shows, where the likes of Stella McCartney, Maison Margiela, Dolce & Gabbana, and Balmain filled the runways with spots and dots in all their high-fashion forms. At the McCartney show, they were subtly added to cropped corsets, embroidered in crystals onto jeans and featured on chic mini-dresses and silky slips alike; D&G put a sultry, screen siren-inspired twist on the typically prim print by using naked-esque sheer materials, while Balmain moved away from the usual black-and-white dots to serve fresh new colour combos instead.
Other brands, like Alaïa, Prada and Miu Miu, meanwhile, have leaned into the polka dot's ladylike look, while adding their own twist. See Margot Robbie and Sienna Miller's recent Wimbledon looks that hit just the right note of formal and fashion-forward, Marc Jacobs' subversive supersize spots, or Louis Vuitton's gothic take on the trend featuring fishnet, as worn by Emma Stone. As ever, the celebrity seal of approval has served only to bolster the print's popularity.
Little wonder then that a number of high-street brands have gone big on the print in their summer collections. Monsoon's Sicily Spot dress became an overnight viral sensation and has long since sold out – though the brand's design director, Caroline Jackson, recommends 'checking back in case of returns' and promises to 'bring it back in a different colourway next season' – while Marks & Spencer has also noticed a spike in demand for the style.
Rat & Boa Gisele Maxi Dress
Miu Miu Polka-Dot Chiffon Skirt
Saint Laurent Polka-Dot Silk-Mousseline Top
Miaou Cam Top
Prada Small Leather-Trimmed Mesh Tote
Rixo Iggy Polka-Dot Lace-Trimmed Satin Midi Dress
Reformation Oaklyn Linen Dress
Manolo Blahnik Scolobi 90 Satin-Trimmed Flocked Mesh Sandals
Mango Polka-Dot Satin Mini-Skirt
'We're in the midst of occasion season at the moment and have seen a phenomenal response to polka dots,' says Lisa Illis, M&S' head of womenswear design. 'Our Polka Dot Maxi flew off the shelves when it launched last month, and most recently we launched a new Polka Dot Tea Dress in black and white, for which sales this week alone are up an amazing 90%.'
Naturally, the ever-popular Rixo, Reformation and Sleeper, whose aesthetic is heavily inspired by vintage, have long been proponents of the print – but by cleverly updating a neckline, skirt shape or hem style, they have ensured their polka dot designs feel fresh rather than too Fifties.
'Admittedly, it’s hard to get polka dots spot on, but the payoff is plentiful. I adore the fun and girlish nostalgia they bring, and have long worn them, especially in the summer months,' says Naomi Pike, ELLE UK's Commissioning Editor and principal polka dot proponent.'But, if the references are too retro, they can lean into the costume-y and characterful. More Minnie Mouse than the perfectly pitched Miu Miu girl we want to be... Polka dots are all about what you wear them with, and in what silhouette. Leave the volume behind and choose slip skirts or dresses that cut close to the body, in dainty polkas where spots are never bigger than a five-pence coin. Extra points for see-through spots: consider them a note on delicate femininity against the more obviously sexy.'
As ever, the line between chic and cheesy is all in the details – though as polka dots are an innately joyful print, it's important to have fun and play around with your styling of them, too. Perhaps this latest iteration of the trend will be the one to finally swing the naysayers once and for all.
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Clementina Jackson is Acting Site Fashion Editor at ELLE UK, working across news and features, trends, e-commerce and SEO. She was previously Fashion Editor at Cosmopolitan and Women’s Health, and Acting Digital Fashion Editor at ELLE UK, where she was named as a PPA 30 Under 30 award winner for her work on size inclusivity. An experienced fashion, travel and luxury lifestyle journalist, Clementina has also written for Harper’s Bazaar, Vanity Fair, Condé Nast Traveller, Tatler, Red and Italy Segreta.
