Keen observers will know that during fashion week, the city streets are as good an indicator of what we might be wearing next season as the shows themselves. This time around, on and off the catwalk, I spotted one piece more than anything else: the midi skirt. There were slinky, lace-edged slips, school-girl pleats, romantic circle skirts, and heavily embellished concoctions. There were sequins for day and canvas column skirts made precious by careful styling. The knee is out, designers and those in attendance declared. The calf is where it’s at.
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Miuccia Prada’s unerring love for the midi skirt has been evidenced in too many Prada and Miu Miu collections to count, manifesting in various guises – pencil-like and a hair above the knee, or full and calf-grazing. This season, it makes a return in mirrored leather, with giant space-age rivets (Prada) and – Miuccia’s favourite – prim pleats (Miu Miu).
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‘A lot of Prada designs start from the ordinary, the archetypal and the symbolic, so it makes sense that the midi skirt is so prominent in [Miuccia’s] work, being such a banal, classic and feminine garment,’ says Guillaume Lavoie, founder of cult Instagram account @whatmiucciawore. ‘With its neutrality it can evoke different eras depending on the style and is an excellent canvas for experimentations with fabric, construction or decoration.’
For SS25, other designers embraced the elegance, comfort, and sexiness of the midi skirt. Dries Van Noten made us hanker for handkerchief hems and Marni heralded the return of the fishtail hem. For those who like a little extra, you may be partial to the embellished styles at Gucci and Tove; meanwhile, there are plenty of understated column skirts for those who live by the ‘less is more’ motto.
7 Best Midi Skirt Styles And How To Wear Them
Not sure quite where to start? Fear not, and think of this as your definitive guide to the midi skirt. Mid in name, not in nature.
A Pleated Midi Skirt
When one thinks of pleated midi skirts, two brands come to mind: Prada and Chopova Lowena. Luckily, both offered up such things in abundance at their SS25 shows – suspended from buckled belts and studded at the hem, respectively.
‘Pleated midis create an effortlessly cool look which can transition easily from casual to elevated with the right accessories,’ says Net-A-Porter's fashion director Kay Barron. Wear yours with ballet flats and a tee, or do like content creator Luena Gama (@luenagamaa) and layer it atop a maxi skirt.
‘It might be an unusual combination but it’s the one that gets the most compliments because of the tiered effect it creates,’ she says.
Chopova Lowena Pleated Carabiner Midi Skirt
Miu Miu Pleated Cotton Midi Skirt
A Midi Slip Skirt
Thank goodness for the slip skirt – it looks great with an oversized shirt and flats for day, and even better with a camisole and strappy heels for evening. We loved the lace-trimmed styles at Dries Van Noten and The Row, which were respectively teamed with an itty-bitty top and oversized bomber jacket, and a slouchy knit and knee-high boots.
‘A simple slip skirt is perfect for layering in all seasons – with a plain white tee in the summer and a chunky knit in the winter,’ says Barron. ‘For dressier occasions, satin midis such as this one from Khaite offers a refined touch.’
& Other Stories Midi Slip Skirt
Anine Bing Silk Satin Slip Skirt
Khaite Organza Midi Skirt
A Midi Fishtail Skirt
It was about time the fishtail skirt made a comeback, and this happened in spectacular fashion at Marni. Think sharp, peplum-hem skirts in a precise palette of black, white, and red, which were styled with ‘80s-tinged blouses and blazers. Meanwhile, Carolina Herrera made a case for dolce-vita styling by pairing a polka-dot fishtail midi skirt with a matching cropped top.
Outside the shows, editors proved that the fishtail or peplum-hem skirt can be dressed down, as well as up. The key lessons? Team a pastel-coloured version with an oversized bomber or field jacket, or opt for one in bleached-out denim for a cooler take.
Marni Jersey Midi Skirt
Simkhai Knitted Midi Skirt
A Deconstructed Midi Skirt
Designers rethought the structure of the midi skirt in varyingly dramatic ways. Khaite’s navy pinstripe skirt had it all – three-dimensional deconstruction and a gathered hem – and looked great worn with a cropped, camel blazer and snake-print kitten heels. At 16Arlington, Marco Capaldo showed a pale-yellow chiffon skirt that was split at the front to reveal a shock of dense fringing – chic, yet unexpected.
If your style errs on the minimal, look instead to Victoria Beckham, where a white bubble hem skirt and matching waistcoat outfit was elegant in its simplicity.
Essentiel Antwerp Tiered Midi Skirt
Alaïa Tiered Midi Skirt
An Embellished Midi Skirt
Maximalists, rejoice. There’s something for you. Midi skirts came liberally embellished at Prada, Gucci, and Tove, and on showgoers. Think heavy rivets (Prada), glittering paillettes (Gucci), and fuzzy appliqué (Tove).
The great thing about the magpie midi is that it looks especially effective when worn as daywear. Add a crisp white tee and ballet flats, or a grey cashmere knit and flat sandals. Miuccia Prada would approve.
Massimo Dutti Sequinned Midi Skirt
Self-Portrait Floral-Appliqué Midi Skirt
H&M Embellished Midi Skirt
A Column Midi Skirt
If you’re unsure about a full, ‘50s silhouette, may we suggest the column skirt – a touch wider than the classic pencil, it creates a pleasing line from waist to calf, and comes in a whole host of guises, from canvas and denim (see Acne Studios) to more precious materials and artful prints.
Show off the skirt in its full glory by opting for abbreviated or fitted silhouettes up top – a boxy jacket or sleek tank works well. On foot, a pointed pump is the most obvious choice (and for good reason, it’s a classic combination) but on chillier days, a knee-high boot makes for an interesting alternative.
Simone Rocha Organza Column Skirt
Posse Column Skirt
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