An assault on the senses, Hong Kong is famous for its overwhelming mix of glass and steel skyscrapers, jungle covered peaks and seascape vistas, dotted with charming islands. Think Blade Runner on the coast.
Having only opened its boarders in early 2023, after a nearly three-year lockdown, Hong Kong has certainly bounced back with impressive finesse. Walking through the bustling streets, shopping malls and parks, you'd be hard pressed to imagine the zero-COVID policy that had completely suffocated tourism.
For the ultimate introduction to Hong Kong, try landing after dark for optimal neon skyline Instagram opportunities. Although the direct flight from London to Hong Kong (with Cathay Pacific) is around 12-13 hours, it feels oddly convenient, especially if flying overnight. As a vegetarian who is normally rather fearful of the in-flight menus on long-haul flights, I found the the Plant-forward dining options to be top tier.
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When first confronted with the idea of visiting Hong Kong as a vegetarian, I was somewhat apprehensive given its not exactly a country synonymous with meat- and fish-free dining, but as any well-versed 'veggie' knows, traveling in comfort (and with a full stomach) is all about planning. While typical Hong Kong dishes include Char sui pork, Fish Balls and Sui Mai, let's not forget the country's love of Tofu, Egg Tarts and most importantly veggie Dim Sum.
Here's my list of the best places to eat, stay, and visit in Hong Kong as a life-long vegetarian:
The Best Places to Eat
Ho Lee Fook
Ho Lee Fook is a feast for the senses, with Mahjong tile-covered walls, golden lucky cats lining the stairs and an 1980s soundtrack to boot, it’s the perfect place for a fun night out with friends. You’ll be spoilt for choice with the restaurant's drinks menu, featuring spectacular cocktails (some also served in golden lucky cats, aka an Instagrammers dream) and some fantastic Chinese wines. I tried the sparkling wine by Emma Gao, made up of 70% Chardonnay, 10% Pinot Noir and 20% Rice, which was a great introduction of what China has to offer. The food there is served ‘family style’, which goes hand in hand with the intimate, low-lit vibe of the restaurant. The salt and pepper tofu with crispy garlic was one of my favourite dishes (I had to tear myself away for the main courses), while the egg fried rice, mapo tofu and seasonal greens were sensational. Ending with the Hong Kong-style French toast, and milk tea gelato, Ho Lee Fooks' menu is a true ode to Hong Kong.
Mora
Although not strictly vegetarian, one Michelin star Mora really is the perfect restaurant for any veggie on the search for innovative fine dining. Set on the famous Cat Street, you’ll feel soothed as soon as you walk in, with sustainability at the very heart of the eatery. A menu that focuses around the soybean (a Chinese staple), with all the soya made in Hong Kong itself, every dish showcases the ingredient in a different form and texture which perfectly complements the dish. We started off with a non-alcoholic sparkling tea from Noble Truth, before starting the seven-course tasting menu. My favourites included the Savoury soy milk with king oyster mushroom, cabbage and tofu roulade and a Jasmine tea blended with Sichuan pepper.
Hong Kong Cuisine 1983
Voted 'Best Chinese Restaurant' at this year's Foodie Forks awards, Hong Kong Cuisine 1983 is fine dining done right. The restaurant boasts an east-meets-west approach, spearheaded by renowned Chef Silas Li. I tried the veggie tasting menu, with highlights including the double boiled chestnut snow fungus soup, served in a coconut shell, and the zucchini flower stuffed with mozzarella and rice. The desserts really stole the show for me – we were treated to egg tarts, where the pastry perfectly melted in the mouth, a tiny little meringue snail with a lemon compote, and a fresh mango mousse with coconut sauce, meringue and frozen pomelo drops.
Maxim’s Palace City Hall
A Hong Kong classic, which is popular with locals and tourists alike, this is the perfect place to experience Yum Cha. Get there early to avoid queues, this place is super popular! Set in a huge dining room, trolleys of dim sum are wheeled around the many tables, so all you have to do is choose what catches your eye.
Lock Cha Tea House
Located in the centre for Hong Kong Park, why not end a leisurely stroll with a mountain of veggie dim sum? The veggie dumplings here are some of the best in Hong Kong, and you won't leave feeling short changed. To add to the first class food, Lock Cha also hosts Tea and Calligraphy Classes and Chinese Music programmes, so you can get your culture fix too.
Little Bao
Craving Bao buns? Little Bao has you covered. With two locations in Hong Kong, this small chain serves up 'bao burgers', which is great for a low-key lunch or a dinner with friends. I ordered the Sloppy Chan Bao – a delicious mess of mushrooms and bao buns. Why not try the Impossible Bao, for the full 'bao burger' experience. The starters really shone here, too, with the smoked eggplant salad stealing the show, as well as the deep fried bao buns with salted caramel and Matcha ice cream.
The Best Places to Drink
Argo at the Four Seasons
Hong Kong certainly comes alive at night, and so does Argos at the Four Seasons. Serving innovative cocktails, each cocktail is loosely based around nature and the circle of life. I suggest trying the Breaker cocktail from the Sweet Potato section. Each section has a sort of ‘standard’ cocktail and an unexpected cocktail to tantalise the tastebuds.
Ozone at the Ritz-Carlton
The highest cocktail bar in the world, boasting uninterrupted views of Hong Kong island, is a sight to behold. Sit on the outdoor terrace for the best views, and order a signature cocktail (Metal, Wood, Water, Fire and Earth). I opted for the Fire cocktail – a smoky concoction with Mezcal, Jalapeno, Birdseye chilli, mango and spicy sugar. It comes with a bit of a 'fire show', while the DJs and live percussion keep the party going until the early hours.
The Best Places to Stay
Ritz-Carlton Hong Kong
Come for the views, but stay for the impeccable service, food, and facilities. Situated in West Kowloon, the Ritz-Carlton Hong Kong is the highest hotel in the world, offering panoramic city views over Hong Kong and Victoria harbour. The pool and gym facilities are some of the best I’ve come across, and in Hong Kong, where space is at a premium, the rooms are incredibly spacious. Why not treat yourself to a massage while gazing at the Hong Kong skyline, or a leisurely swim or soak in the outdoor jacuzzi? From the small details such as remembering my name and breakfast order, to larger tasks of helping me plan activities, the staff here couldn’t do enough to help and make each experience feel tailor-made.
The Ritz-Carlton boasts a two Michelin star Cantonese restaurant Tin Lung Heen, whose veggie dim sum options are out of this world. If you’re craving something a bit more western, why not try Tosca Di Angelo, a fine dining Italian restaurant? All of the restaurants at the Ritz-Carlton are on one floor, connected by stunning wine lined corridors, and offer a 360-degree experience with dining options to suit all tastes.
Upper House Hong Kong
Nestled in among the high rises of Hong Kong island, Upper house is evidence that real-life tranquillity is possible. As soon as you walk in you will feel at ease, with interiors designed by Hong Kong born architect Andre Fu which help to make Upper House feel like a home, rather than a hotel. For our fashion-focused readers, Upper House also offers a stay in collaboration with Net-A-Porter and Mr Porter, which includes gift vouchers for the aforementioned platforms, along with a slew of other benefits.
The Peninsula Hong Kong
Few hotels stand the test of time as well as the Peninsula. Perfectly located right by the harbour, this historic hotel was opened in 1928, and boasts traditional rooms, several high-end restaurants and generally exudes sophisticated glamour. Definitely one for the history buffs.
Mondrian Hong Kong
For the art lovers, Mondrian Hong Kong is a dream. Opened in December 2023, the hotel features rooms with pared back designs and accented with art by local artists which show Hong Kong’s eclectic art scene. The hotel's in-house restaurant Carna is technically a steakhouse, but the vegetarian menu is varied, so rest assured you wont go hungry here.
The Best Things to Do
Cheung Chau Bun Festival
Held over several days in April or May, Cheung Chau Bun Festival is held on Cheung Chau island, a short ferry ride from Hong Kong Island. Set on the tropical island, the festival includes a parade through the streets including traditional lion and dragon dances, along with children dressed as traditional and modern heroes, suspended in the air. At midnight, a race to collect buns from the top of a bun tower (an activity called bun snatching) occurs. Three days of the festival sees the whole island 'go vegetarian', with the majority of the restaurants on the island joining in with the tradition (perfect for us veggies!). The local McDonalds on the island even does a special veggie burger, which is a must-try. Why not visit the Kwok Kam Kee Cake shop on the island, who are the official suppliers of the buns for the festival.
Humid With A Chance Of Fish Balls Tour
To really get to the heart of Hong Kong cuisine, it’s ideal to get out and about on the streets and eat like a local. Humid With A Chance Of Fishballs create custom made tours (ideal for veggie travellers) or have several group tours every week. On our tour we discovered the areas of Mong Kok and Sham Shui Po, which was a great opportunity to get off the beaten path and explore new areas of Hong Kong. The Pineapple bun (no pineapple actually included, rather it's a soft bun with a crispy sugary crust, filled with slices of cold butter) and milk tea at Kam Wah Café is the local equivalent to afternoon tea. We also visited Kung Wo Beancurd Factory, a café loved by locals, which serves all things tofu, including an incredible pudding with sugar on top, and tofu ice cream with ginger syrup that would convert even the most staunch tofu hater.
Peak Tram
A must while visiting Hong Kong is to ride the peak tram up to Victoria peak. A relatively short tram rise to an incredible viewpoint, Sky Terrace 428. From here I would recommend having a leisurely hike along the Peak Trail for incredible views of the city from the jungle covered mountain.
Aqua Luna Boat Tour
A stunning boat ride on Victoria Harbour, the views from this boat tour are second to none. Board the historic junk boat just before sunset to watch the sun go down and see the skyline light up as night descends.
M+ Art Museum
Out of all the museums in Hong Kong, M+ has to be my favourite. Situated in West Kowloon Cultural district, this museum is just minutes on foot from the Ritz-Carlton hotel and Kowloon MTR station. Although there are paid for exhibitions, the free exhibitions are where it really shines. The M+ Sigg Collection: Another Story, showcases contemporary Chinese art form the 1990s to current day, and is a great way to experience modern Chinese art. Whilst walking through the galleries occasional glimpses can be caught of the incredible views over Victoria harbour, almost framing the skyline as an artwork of its own.
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