Puglia might not be as well-known as its Amalfi Coast and Lake Como counterparts among us Brits, but it’s quickly rising up the ranks in travel as the go-to destination for Italophiles across the globe.
For decades, it’s been the favoured location for Italians to take their August holidays, but only in recent years has it become a destination for tourists (its busy period is June-September). Celebrities including Helen Mirren and Meryl Streep have owned properties in the region, and Maggie Gyllenhaal married Peter Sarsgaard in a 15th-century Italian convent in Brindisi.
Located in the southern part of the country, forming the heel of Italy’s ‘boot’, Puglia is best known for whitewashed hill towns and rugged farmland (it’s nicknamed the ‘breadbasket’ of Italy given its hot, dry climate and wheat production), making it famous for orecchiette, a small, handmade pasta shaped like an ear, and polpette di pane, bread fritters soaked in milk, egg, parsley and herbs.
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Its vast Mediterranean coastline means it’s bordered by the Adriatic Sea on the east, and the Ionian Sea on the south, making it the perfect spot for cliff jumping, sunbathing on vast beaches and cooling off in the sea on hot summer days. Home to vineyards, Roman ruins and Baroque cities with unparalleled architecture (check out the Itria Valley’s ‘trulli’ white stone huts with conical roofs) Puglia is hotbed for outstanding cuisine, culture and the best Italy has to offer.
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It's also a top destination for couple's wanting to enjoy their final holiday before their little one arrives – otherwise known as a babymoon). Given its flat terrain, close proximity to the coast, wherever you choose to stay, and deliciously rich food, it’s the perfect spot to relax and soak up quality time in the Italian sunshine with minimal effort before parenthood.
Here's the ELLE UK babymoon guide to Puglia:
Where to stay
Puglia is most certainly a destination where visitors require a car to get around, given the sheer amount of cities, coastal towns and quaint villages you can visit for an afternoon, evening or a couple of nights. While there are options to hop on buses, coaches and trains, we advise dedicating a chunk of your finances to car hire to make your life as easy as possible.
Don Totu, San Cassiano
You haven’t quite known Italian luxury until you’ve stepped foot inside Don Totu, an 18th century palazzo in San Cassiano, a very small yet bustling town in Salento. Previously owned by Don Totu, the land steward of the Cito family, the dimore storica (historic house) space is deceiving given its small façade but opens into a high-ceiling palace with large terraces, a portico for breakfast, a modern cellar, library, gardens, a hamman, orchard and a swimming pool.
Inside, each of the property’s rooms (there are six in total, three suites) are built and designed with originality in mind, featuring canopy beds, mirrors, white linens, Maria Candida Gentile bath products and chandeliers. Don’t expect your television in your room – Don Totu’s ethos is all about relaxation, wellness and easing yourself into the south-Italian lifestyle. The Torretta Suite is our particular favourite, split over two floors with its own private terrace.
Soak up the sunshine by the pool, surrounded by fruit trees and cypresses, and indulge in a bowl of your favourite ice cream, served by the staff direct to your sunlounger (we recommend two scoops of the pistachio). The hotel also offers guests the chance to rent two Vespas for free, daily yoga classes every morning in the high-tech fitness room, and a hammam with a jacuzzi, rainfall shower and a Turkish bath, which can be booked by the hour every evening.
While the hotel doesn’t have a restaurant (there are plenty of eateries close by to choose from), it does serve lunch on the terrace, breakfast and offers a daily appertif, whether your tipple of choice is a negroni or Aperol Spritz.
Don Totu is available from €345 per room, per night on a B&B basis. Price includes daily yoga sessions, evening aperitif, daily gelato, soft drinks, complimentary use of bicycles and vespas, access to the gym and Hammam.
Palazzo Tafuri Boutique, Nardo
If you’re in need of interiors inspiration for your next DIY project, then prepare for Palazzo Tafuri to feature on the top of your Pinterest board. Located in Salento (famous for its Baroque and Moorish buildings and 20km proximity to the bustling city of Lecce), Palazzo Tafui is located in the heart of Nardo opposite an ancient Monastery. Its aesthetic is the perfect mélange of Italian renaissance meets modernity, with high ceilings in the individually-designed rooms, large rain showers, bathtubs and white linens (some with terraces). Our favourite? The teucrium suite, with its Moorish style fresco ceiling and views overlooking the monastery and church of Santa Chiara, complete with its own private balcony.
Located on the ground floor of the hotel, behind the breakfast terrace, is the indoor and outdoor pool. There’s also a Turkish bath and a sauna, and upstairs another sun terrace overlooking the Castello Aragonese – perfect for sunbathing in the day or sipping cocktails at night. Downstairs is the renowned Tafuri restaurant, which cooks up local and seasonal produce to guests, whether it’s fresh fish caught in the Ionian Sea, or slow-cooked capocollo for 48 hours. The restaurant is run by Salento-born chef Antonia Capoccelo, and scores a 4.9 rating on Google. It’s one not to miss.
While there’s no parking onsite (a bit of a pain for those expecting but not a worry), you can easily find street parking a few minutes away. As for its central location, you can’t beat it. It’s less than a five minute walk from the central square full of bars and restaurants, and a short drive from Gallipoli’s ancient port if a day trip is on the cards.
Room prices start at €231 euros and for an additional €44 per night per person, guests can also enjoy a half-board stay including breakfast and dinner.
Fiermonte Museum by La Fiermontina, Lecce
Art lovers, you have been warned. Fiermonte Museum by La Fiermontina is a haven for those who love to blend relaxation with culture and learning about the rich histories of one of Lecce’s most famous families.
Located slap bang in the centre of Lecce, metres from Sant' Oronzo Square, Fiermonte Museum by La Fiermontina is a unique find located above the Fiermonte Museum, which houses the Fiermonte family’s private art collection and explores the history of its two most famous artists –René Letourneur and Jacques Zwobada, and their muse, Antonia Fiermonte.
Guests of the hotel have access to the museum, as well as a garden, free private parking, a shared lounge, a terrace and can enjoy an exquisite à la carte breakfast al fresco, with omelettes cooked to one's liking, fluffy pastries and more. A home for art, it’s unsurprising that each room has been created with design in mind, ranging from lilac and pistachio-hued to featuring bold stone sculptures and artwork from Letourneur and Zwobada.
The hotel is a short walk away from the main La Fiermontina Luxury Home, with 16 rooms and three suites, and La Fiermontina Palazzo Bozzi Corso, a guest house situated more centrally and boasting a rich history and connection to The Beatles and Yoko Ono.
Prices for the four suites at the museum range from €300 to €1,000, depending on the season and the room category.
Airbnb, Matera
You’ll likely recognise Matera from films such as The Passion of Christ and Ben-Hur, but the most famous (in our eyes, at least) is 007’s No Time To Die. The city and capital of the Province of Matera in the region of Basilicata, is formed on rocky mountainside and famous for its Sassi area, a complex system of cave dwelling caved into the mountainside which used to house hundreds of families before they were evacuated in 1952 due to poor living conditions. In the years that followed, the city went unnoticed until it was declared a Unesco World Heritage site in 1993. Since then it’s been transformed into a tourist destination, with hotels, Airbnbs and restaurants now filling its Sassis – an unthinkable prospect given its ancient civilisation and former ‘slum’ reputation.
Rich in history, it goes without question that a stay in one of the city’s caves is a must during a visit. While there are ample Airbnbs and hotels to choose from, our favourite has to be this spot, located just off the main street and seconds’ walk away from the Piazza San Pietro Caveoso (as seen in the James Bond film). The cave has been fully renovated with a kitchen and bathroom shower, as well as a queen-size bed, air conditioning and Wi-Fi.
Prices in the area vary.
Don Ferrante, Monopoli
Few hotels have the prime spot quite like Don Ferrante, a boutique hotel located on the front of the coast in Monopoli’s old town. Previously an ancient fortress, the hotel is a maze of narrow staircases, limestone vaulted ceilings, and houses just 10 rooms across three different buildings.
In the main building upstairs you’ll find the Don Ferrante terrace, with its striped deck chairs and rattan armchairs – the perfect spot for sundowners as you watch the town come alive. In the adjacent building is where you’ll find a buffet breakfast, served inside a 16th century gunpowder cellar no less (think cereals and fresh pastries, cooked ages and bacon), with a table setting that overlooks the waves crashing below. There’s also a small swimming pool on the first floor of the main building, which is a welcome relief if lounging on the rocks in the city’s public beach isn’t to your liking.
While we suggest heading out for dinner, given the countless restaurants offering delectable dishes in the town, there’s also a restaurant onsite – Locanda Ferrante – which is open from May to September for lunch and June to August for dinner, serving up local seafood and product.
The starting rate for a standard double at Don Ferrante is €350.
Where to eat
Trattoria Donna Rossa, Salento
The best place to find fresh fish inland in Salento, Trattoria Donna Rossa is a short drive away from Don Totu and serves up a delicious variety of dishes including crab risotto, calamari, black seafood linguine and more.
Location: Piazza del Popolo, 14, Muro Leccese, Italy
Matisse Ristorante, Uggiano La Chiesa
Heralded as one of the best restaurants in the area, Matisse is situated in a beautiful white-washed building decorated with Matisse artwork and boasts a vast garden terrace, which is perfect for dining al fresco come summer. Given its popularity, you’ll want to book a table to dine on dishes like tataki tuna, pasta with red prawns and salty ricotta flakes, and potato gnocchi in Amatriciana style with smoked swordfish and mozzarella stracciatella.
Location: via Garibaldi, 113, Uggiano la Chiesa
BIGA 24, Nardò
It’s hard to find a pizza restaurant you won’t immediately fall in love with in Italy, but we highly recommend Biga 24 if you’re into a thick crust. Try the pizza with gorgonzola, walnuts, honey and dried pears and eduli flowers or the one topped with a sweet yellow tomato paste, raw Parma ham, Apulian burrata and basil pesto.
Location: P.za Armando Diaz, 10, 73048 Nardò
Antica Trattoria Salandra, Lecce
If you’re on the search for a hearty dinner in Nardò then look no further than this quaint yet incredibly bustling restaurant. A firm favourite among locals and tourists alike, the eatery serves everything from, octopus and potato stew to fresh stewed mussels, and is located right in the centre of town opposite Café Paris – the perfect pitstop for post-dinner drinks and ice cream.
Location: Via G. B. de Michele, 4, 73048 Nardò
Tabisca ‘il Vico dei Tagliati’, Lecce
With a 4.7 rating on Google, this Italian steakhouse is the place to find dishes inspired by Southern Italy and get your iron fix. The steaks are served to your liking on a hot stone, with copious amounts of sides, meaning you can cook and eat as you go, without losing any of that flavour and juiciness during your meal. Be warned, you’ll want to come hungry to this establishment.
Location: Vico Dietro Lo Spedale dei Pellegrini 29 Near Piazzetta Santa Chiara, 73100, Lecce
Più Sud, Matera
You may come to Matera for the views and romanticism of Italy history, but you’ll want to stay – at least for dinner – for Più Sud. A family-run pizza restaurant, this eatery serves some of the best pizza the South of Italy has to offer. Try the Pizza Basilicata (with peeled tomato San Marzano Dop, grilled peppers, artichokes, Senise crusco pepper and a touch of mint) or the Pizza Calabria (topped spicy Calabrian salami, capers and basil).
Location: Rione Pianelle Civico 16, 75100 Matera
What to do
Pescoluse beach
Pescoluse is a beach in southern Italy which has been dubbed the ‘Maldives of Salento’ given its white sand, clear blue waters and shallow seabed. because of its white sand, clear water, and shallow seabed. You can easily rent two sunbeds and an umbrella for around 40 euros, and enjoy a day of sunbathing swimming before driving into the local own for a lae lunch.
Location: Loc. Pescoluse, 73050 Salve LE, Italy
Salento’s caves
Salento is peppered with countless and caves, but our favourites include The Grotta della Poesia (The Cave of Poetry), located in the marina of San Foca on the Adriatic side and The Grotta Azzurra (Blue Cave), which is visited by sea and blue given the sun’s reflections.
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Katie O'Malley is the Site Director on ELLE UK. On a daily basis you’ll find Katie managing all digital workflow, editing site, video and newsletter content, liaising with commercial and sales teams on new partnerships and deals (eg Nike, Tiffany & Co., Cartier etc), implementing new digital strategies and compiling in-depth data traffic, SEO and ecomm reports. In addition to appearing on the radio and on TV, as well as interviewing everyone from Oprah Winfrey to Rishi Sunak PM, Katie enjoys writing about lifestyle, culture, wellness, fitness, fashion, and more.
